We had the salmon version last night of the arrabbiata dish I mentioned on 10 September. You make the tomato sauce in exactly the same way but just add the little cubes of salmon a minute before the end. By the time you've drained the pasta and thrown it into the sauce the salmon is nicely cooked. This is one of my best and most reliable recipes and it's very healthy (no cheese!).

Maggie won't like this, but I use wild keta salmon in this dish. It's half the price of the wild sockeye and, let's face it, the flavours in the dish are hardly subtle enough to allow the taste of expensivo salmon to shine through. To get the salmon neat and clean in little cubes, rather than all raggity, I deal with it semi-frozen: easy to skin and easy to snip into little half-inch cubes. I'm thinking 200g salmon before skinning per person, which is generous, but I need me omega 3 innit...