In mid-Mapouka the Old Lady notices BBCW and hurries over with a steaming plate of lovely buttered crumpets. Smiling African Man helps him off with his variable-size rucksack and he's ushered into the Tavern, where people are chatting and beginning to sing some traditional songs.
A scruffy old white cat is stretched out on a sofa in the corner. It's Sam the Skull!