Hmm. Mrs Steve makes the Christmas puds in September or October, and they don't live in the fridge either. We've even had year-old ones before now. No problemo!

I'm keeping it simple for Christmas Eve. I have a one-kilo lump of boned and rolled free-range unsmoked gammon. I've soaked it for 24 hours and will throw away the first boiling, in the hope of getting a stock that's not too salty for soup. It will go into my biggest pot, covered with water to which I'm adding a carrot, a stick of celery, an onion, parsley, thyme, a bay leaf and a few peppercorns. I can't understand people who ruin the ham (and the prospect of good stock) with horrid things such as coca-cola or cider. I reckon it will take about 90 minutes-ish. It will go nicely with some greens, mashed potato and my home-made parsley sauce, which I'll make while the greens are cooking and the ham is resting. There'll be plenty of cutting for the next few days of cold turkey (the bird, not the withdrawal from anything). Can't wait! Just off to get it going...