Well tonight I'm roasting a free-range chicken from a farm near Crediton in Devon. The carrots and the spuds I'm roasting are Scottish, the cauliflower is Cornish. The stuffing will be made from local sausage meat that I buy from a butcher in Bude who also has a farm (he rears the best lamb you could ever get your hands on and his sausages are to die for). I grew the parsnips myself, which I'll baste with Cornish butter (from Trewithen dairy, the only brand of butter we've bought for about 15 years) and home-grown fresh thyme and parsley, and we make our own gravy from the roasting tin juices. I bought the chipolatas in Waitrose and they say Duchy Originals on the packet. When we have cold chicken tomorrow it will be with Jersey RoyaIs and broad beans I grew myself. Is that good enough?

The wine will, however, be Italian...