In 1977 we stayed near Cloghane, over the Conor Pass from Dingle, for two weeks at the wonderful Nellie O'Neill's B&B. We laughed out loud at breakfast every morning when I got two fried eggs with my fry-up but Mrs Steve, "the little woman," only got the one! We didn't need any more food until the evening! Her sister ran Murphy's Bar, four miles down the road at Brandon. One evening Nellie asked us furtively if we'd be going down to the pub. We said we would be, so she asked us to deliver a huge parcel wrapped in thick, plain brown paper, to be handed to no-one except her sister, no names, no pack drill, ask no questions get no lies. We complied, of course, increasingly suspecting from the odour that the parcel contained something, er, fishy. The sister was very grateful, gave us a free Guinness and disappeared off with the hefty parcel into the back room. A while later she emerged with a huge tray of paper plates and forks, each holding a generous chunk of the finest salmon I've ever tasted, before or since - free of charge to the couriers. We didn't ask...