On 10 November, after an incredibly mild autumn, I picked a pound and a half of very decent cherry tomatoes from my greenhouse. Unprecedented. I've neither trained nor watered the plants for a month and the greenhouse is a disgraceful tomato jungle that I have to fight my way into. We ate the best-looking ones with cheese and wine, but the rest I made into Marcella's onion and butter sauce. Because the toms were on their skins, I whizzed the sauce at the end. But then I added it to some far more rubbly sauce I'd made yesterday from a batch of San Marzano that I'd got cheap. The spicy, sharp cherry toms, blended with the rather mild San Marzano sauce, made for an ideal blend. So that's four lots of onion and butter sauce in the freezer, to go with with spaghetti and Parmesan (or one of Marcella's variants). Winter might not seem so bad.