I forgot to mention the tuiles. They're an amazing nibble with the aperitif. The only ingredient is finely-grated Parmesan cheese. I make mine on greaseproof paper. Three tuiles are more than enough per person. Get a big oven tray and cover it with greaseproof paper. Grate the Parmesan on to it. For two, you need enough to make six little mounds of grated cheese, each one about an inch and a half across. Each mound should be just slightly heaped in the middle.

Preheat the oven to 180C. Put the tray in the oven for exactly eight minutes. This is crucial. Take out the tray and very gently transfer the tuiles on to a rack to cool. They are ready in minutes but they keep for several hours. A gorgeous, crispy, salty snack that will have you topping up your glass.