Oh Seth! I am aching all over! I spent a two days in Chengdu waiting for a flight into Lhasa - can't believe that it was over 20 years ago. Then ChengDu was pretty desolate. Their main livestock was rats - no kidding. We were sitting at the usual table for ten in the hotel dining room when I saw something out of the corner of my eye. The guide who was sitting with us motioned me to be quiet. She didn't want to panic the "ladies" in the group. The rats were like pets - they came right to the table, sat up, and begged. Big rats.

The following day I walked through an outdoor bazaar - blankets on the ground. Every third vendor was selling a home made rat poison and advertising its effectiveness with proof - dead rats. Each had a pathetic little mouse running on a plate that was balanced in an empty bottle. poor thing would run itself to death and then be replaced.

There was a lot of building going on then. It sounds as if things have improved. I would love to hear about what is going on now. Is Kunming still as beautiful as I remember it? Beautiful place. Beautiful people.

In Lhasa you can buy prayer flags in the center market. Be sure your family puts one at the highest possible spot to wave for them forever.