Hi, lovemyblues, I don't hang out in blues clubs much, but I can tell you that avoiding big tourist joints aren't going to be a problem, there aren't any. This is a rural area, so there's not a lot of big venues teeming with blues acts every night, but there are some things going on. I'm trying to post a couple links I ran across, no guarantees, but maybe they will help you get some ideas for your itinerary.It would probably be a good idea to see if you can work your trip around a festival. There's one today, I think, in Greenville, for example, that's worth a pilgrimage, and there are a few other 'biggies'. Maybe there's something on the 2002 calendar you could get to. Key towns to check would be Greenville, Clarksdale, and of course the tip end of the delta is Memphis, they have real as well as tourist blues and some cool festivals too. Another nearby stop would be Jackson just a bit south of the Delta, which has a good festival called "Zoo Blues", might work into your schedule.
Okay, here's the unvouched for links, and maybe some true bluesheads can add better ones: