As noted, there are some stores that still have a selection you can listen to. Unfortunately, it's a selection usually determined by (in order of authority) the labels paying for the placement, the chain trying to promote what they think will sell, and finally the store staff posting what they either like or think will sell.
I've not seen a store offering full 'listening' since Blockbuster stopped theirs, shortly before they folded.
And as to 'free music for all'... Well, there HAS to be a middle ground. Napster and the like DO provide a useful service. Unfortunately, it's a service VERY easily abused. The current suggested alternatives (pay-to-subscribe with VERY limited catalogues) is not going to be an equivalent. The current appearance is that Napster has died only to be replaced with other services that can NOT be shut down.
Oh well. Kinda makes it moot.