If you already have a site and want to play with HTML and web pages, assuming you have Windows, why not just install Personal Web Server and learn on your own computer? If you were really adventurous, you could even learn about dynamic pages.

Editors, I have used Front Page Express and found it useful for getting layouts.

Hosts, mine is 38h.com in the UK. I have found them to be very reliable. The package I have costs around £50 per year. The limitations are 40Mb space and 1Gb bandwidth per month. The good side is it includes a free domain name and supports ASP, PHP MS Access, MySQL, etc. - probably stuff that wouldn't concern you (unless you did investigate dynamic pages) but the sort of stuff I need to support the Annexe.

Jon

Jon