I've been to every major battlefield and most of the minor ones and Tennessee is a gold mine. I'm one of the nuts that thinks the war in the "west" meaning TN., MO., AL.,MS., LA., to be far more fascinating than the east. I lived in both Chattanooga and Nashville (also Atlanta) and loved the history rooted there. I wouldn't make the trip without taking a side trip one way or the other.

To the southwest there is Shiloh and Vicksburg...both well worth the trip. Shiloh is such a strange battle because of the earliness in the war. Many opps on both sides squandered and much bravery shown. At Shiloh Grant learned that he couldn't let casualties stop him. We see the effects of Shiloh late in the war at Richmond, Wilderness, Petersburg, etc. Vicksburg is remarkable for the bluffs, the difficulties faced by the Union in even getting there, and the tenacity shown by both sides during the siege.

Nashville is probably the least significant of all the battlefields you can see, but head down I-24 for Chattanooga. Stop first at Murfreesboro to see Stone River. It was another of the artillery "Hells" and had it's own "Bloody Angle." You'll be there in the summer, but remember that this battle was waged during the bleakest part of a Tennessee winter with the rain, snow, and mud as a common opponent. Though it had shown before, this was the first place where the brilliant light of George Thomas shown brightly. I agree with others in believing he was the most brilliant defensive General we have ever seen, before or since. This Union victory also gave Lincoln the high note he needed to issue the Eman Proc, not totally something he had wanted to do.

As you drive toward Chattanooga, note the terrain. This was covered by both armies in the late winter and early spring, again with the snow, rain, and mud ever present. I have always been struck by the terrain surrounding Chattanooga as it must have been a different breed of man in those times to have accomplished the marches alone, forget the battles.

In Chattanooga, Lookout Mountain gets the"airplay" and the drive up to the top is worth it, for the view, if nothing else.(or ride the Incline if you want a fun way up) The battle was not one of the toughest by any means, but Hooker's men had been humiliated in the east and were not about to deny the publicity they got...and they did do a great job...just not as tough as it was portrayed at the time. Remember too that the Army of Tennessee had also taken an embarassing defeat at Chickamauga just prior to this, so go to the Cemetery in the Orchard and take a good look at Missionary Ridge. One of the most remarkable feats of the entire war was the unordered advance from the base to the top by those Chickamauga vets. It's an inspiring story to read, but when you stand at the base of Missionary Ridge and imagine the gun implacements at the top...Damn!

Bringing us now to Chickamauga, only a few miles to the south of Chattanooga in LaFayette (pronounced there as Luh-Fay-ett`) Georgia. It is very much today as it was then. No, it's not all the same trees or underbrush, but it might as well be. It is easy to see how Rosecrans became confused and how the mistake was exploited. Chickamauga brought some of the best and worst from both sides together. Braxton Bragg...what can you say? Old Rosey was brilliant, but one of the worst field commanders. On the other hand, and facing each other in a bit of a standoff at the end (as it should be when greats meet), was Pete Longstreet and George Thomas. I've always loved Chickamauga, it is the most haunting of battlefields, east or west. And the stories of courage and bravery that took place there.........On Snodgrass Hill, you can stand where Thomas did, thanking every man of the 2nd Minnesota as they came through the lines and you can see the monument (the place is loaded with them) with the Tiger on top, Opdyke's Tigers, the 125th Ohio Volunteers, where it sits close to the place that, when told by Thomas that the ridge had to be held at all costs, Opdyke said, "We'll hold this hill or go to Heaven from it." Chickamauga is one of a few battles I suggest reading about before you go as it is very large and not easily assimilated unless you have a general idea of the battle's flow.

Geez, I didn't mean to get this carried away...Sorry! I'd personally suggest the Nashville/Chatta side trip...plus you're on I-75 and ready to head home.

catspaw