I have tried this song in various modes and had the most success playing it in a DADGAD tuning, capo'd to Em. The pattern is simple and has tremendous room for improvisation with a very haunting sound! Altan does a great version of this... and I enjoy the tempo they use. However, I have heard it played slowly and deliberatly a few times as well. A great tune that is well recieved everywhere I have played it!