The Mudcat Café TM
Thread #56482   Message #883891
Posted By: Grab
06-Feb-03 - 07:40 AM
Thread Name: Walking Lake District - Robin Hood's Bay
Subject: RE: Walking Lake District - Robin Hood's Bay
I did that walk about 8 years back. It's a good route. I had a first go at it the previous year, but I picked up a stomach bug and had to drop out just after Shap.

First off, buy the Wainwright book - it goes into more detail than the OS maps, and has interesting info about the places you're walking past. Second off, DON'T just rely on the Wainwright book to guide you, as it is sometimes unclear and may be out-of-date. This is mainly the case for the section through the Lake District, where it's quite easy to pick the wrong path. Most of the rest of it you can get away without OS maps, but it's *essential* to get the maps for the Lake District. There's one bit in particular for going up to Grizedale Hause (between Helvellyn and St Sunday Crag) which is very poorly laid-out in the book, which caused me to take the wrong turning the first time I tried the walk. Remember that this is an "unofficial" walk, ie. there is no-one who officially has to label the route unlike "official" UK paths like the Pennine Way, and it doesn't have the same support as some of the Trails do in the States. As Raggytash says, the book is about to go out of print so grab a copy quickly.

Tthe Ordnance Survey maps (the standard government-produced maps) are very good and can be relied on 100%, which according to Bill Bryson isn't the case with US maps! The best choice is usually the 1:50,000 series, which cover the ground in pretty good detail without getting bogged down in it. The 1:25,000 series tries to show walls and fences and stuff as well, but this tends to change and make the map obsolete, which screws up your route-finding, besides being at such a scale that you need to refold the map every hour or so which is a total pain in the arse. The UK is pretty well covered with footpaths, and the terrain can often be difficult if you leave the paths (besides getting angry farmers on your tail!) so try to stick to the paths.

One of the problems with the walk is that the toughest section is the bit through the Lakes, and that comes first! :-( The first day from St Bees to Ennerdale isn't too strenuous, but after that it gets more difficult. So do at least get yourself fit before you start.

Make sure you've got YHA membership. Youth Hostels are vital for getting clothes dried and regrouping, if it turns out to be a wet walk. If you've got more money then B&Bs will serve the same purpose, but they won't have the same "community" feeling of Youth Hostels - you often meet up with other walkers, which is nice.

Unofficial campsites are usually cheaper and more fun than the official ones. You'll sometimes find ads pinned to trees as you approach towns/villages, or see signs when you get to the villages. Often pubs will let you put your tent up in their back garden. The OS maps show official campsites, and you can also get guidebooks of British campsites which are useful. IIRC the campsites on the last third or so are awkwardly spaced, so you tend to have to either do several short days or a fewer very long ones.

If you can spare the time and your legs will take it, go up Helvellyn on the way. It's a helluva trek up Dollywagon Pike to the top of Helvellyn, but it's a great view. You can then (carefully!) go down Striding Edge, which is one of the classic British ridge-walks. Unfortunately I did this in Easter and it snowed pretty comprehensively the week before. I made it up Dollywagon OK, but Striding Edge and Swirral Edge were impassable sheets of ice! :-( It'll be fine in summer though. Do be warned that Striding Edge is a bit of a scramble, so if you're not 100% confident with a big pack on your back then maybe avoid this. It's easier to do this if you wild-camp at the top of Grizedale Hause, but wild-camping is generally frowned upon by the Park authorities, especially in summer when the idiots turn out in force.

There's a valley in the middle which is 30-ish miles of boring flatlands. This is a fast but tedious day of lowland walking on paths and roads - as Wainwright says, just get it over with quickly.

Oh, and don't forget the free half-pint (courtesy of Wainwright) at the pub in Robin Hood's Bay! It used to be a pint (as a challenge, he said when he originally published the route that anyone doing this deserved a pint on him! :-) but it was costing him too much money when the route took off in popularity!

I can try and dredge my memory for more useful info if you like. If you've got any specific questions, fire away.

Graham.