gQ -

The larger tenderizer you appear to describe is what the fellow at the meat market might have used prior to the popularity of the rotary (electric) tenderizer. If that's what it is, you have a rather rare (interesting-rare, although not necessarily $$$$-rare) artifact, as these are not often seen in the "antique" shops.

Those of us who have survived long enough to outlast our teeth will attest to the non-extinction of tough beef, some of which can still benefit from more serious "maceration." If you're also "monetarily challenged" and buy only the cheapest cuts of beef, you'll get quite a lot of it, at least in my area. It doesn't matter what kind of cow it came from. It's mostly a matter of how old it was and how much exercise the critter had, with some variation with which end your particular piece came from.

You can buy "pre-prepped" chicken fried steak at your nearby Sam's or Costco, and this stuff is used by quite a few restaurants in my area. It's made from cuts that would be inedible without the substantial use of the electric tenderizer - the "modern" equivalent of vigorous and sustained hammering, pre-breaded, and often is just tossed in the deep-fryer for cooking. While I wouldn't recommend this stuff when you're out for enjoyment, or the method of cooking, it's ok for a quick "trad" lunch if you're fairly hungry.

I can attest to the survival of the folk-trad method in north Texas. Within the past month we were in the "Higgins Donut Shop" while "Gene" was preparing to serve the weekly chicken fried steak. A good crew could have framed a 3 BR house with about the same amount of hammering. Although we didn't "stay for dinner" I can also assure that a good set of teeth are required for this particular delicacy, as served there. The last time I ate his chicken fry, I resorted to my trusty pocket knife several times.

The Higgins Donut Shop (or Doughnut Shop on the other sign) may be about as close as one is likely to find to a remnant from the past couple of generations in "rural north Texas." The operator, Gene, got his "culinary education" as a "roundup cook." Were not too sure what his other prior occupations may have been. He "opens" - a very loose term there - at about 3:00 AM, and a few regulars may be there when he arrives, or come in shortly after. The early arrivals are mostly there for the coffee and conversation. We were there at 4:00 on the trip mentioned above.

The "coffee crowd" are mostly the walking elderly, and represent a cross section of the missing and maimed body parts and other impaired faculties that are associated with survivors of life in the ranching, oilfield, and railroad occupations of the area, with the cumulative effects of typical good-old-boy drinking in a few cases, and with the "depth of the local gene pool" - or lack thereof - evident in a couple. A fair number have old reminders of junk cars on long bad roads from an earlier time.

Some of these old folk may have some good stories about things long past, and may even remember stories their parents told them; but asking one to "tell me about the good old days" won't get very far. Once in a while, an old story (that everyone knows) will pop up, but mostly the talk is about current events – i.e. each other. Whoever leaves is good for at least 5 or 10 minuts conversation, and someone who doesn't come in regularly – but showed up last week – may get a daily comment for a week or two. Mostly, it's good natured, and there are no secrets. Everyone knows what "they all say" about them.

The "younger generation" shows up later – 6:00 to 8:00 am, usually to eat a bit before getting to work. They generally don't linger. These young cowboys are a little better educated, but they're pretty much doing the same stuff their folks did, only with better equipment. They may well look just like the current early crowd in 30 or 40 years, except that the vehicles are better, the roads are all at least paved, and the farm equipment doesn't tear you up as often, so they may have fewer scars. These may not be the good old days in Higgins Texas, but they're not much different.

The "ladies" and "families" may come in to eat lunch anytime from 9:00 to noon. Closed about noon or 1:00 – or whenever everyone leaves.

Not a very exciting place, but I always feel like "everythings the way it ought to be in Higgins" by the time I've spent an hour or two there.

As for the rest of the town, there's a modern convenience store/gas station where the owner has tried to bring fine cuisine to Higgins. You may still be able to get an Emu-burger or Buffalo Steak there, a couple of his recent attempts; but not many people spend a lot of time just hanging out. You go in for a loaf of bread and a lottery ticket, and maybe a bag of ice.

The town library has a fast internet connection, and some really good references, but probably half the "literature" is in books that still have Lin In Kansas' name on the current card from 40(?) years ago. The school is modern, but small. Two or three churches are the rest of the "culture" in Higgins.

John