Advice to get the Stainless Steel model, rather than the cheaper aluminum, is good. The main disadvantage of the aluminum ones is that under tension and at temperatures reached under pressure, aluminum, in the grades commonly used, can "creep," causing loss of tension on the big gasket (after a few years - of course). This was the main reason for discarding two small p-cookers over the past 30 years or so. The flanges can be "reset" - with a 2x4 and a large hammer, but there has to be some concern about cracking the flange, so I've usually replaced after a couple of "adjustments."

Assuming you're in the U.S., you'll find that the new pressure cookers/canners all have OSHA mandated "safety" features that you may not have seen on older ones. One is the mandatory "positive lock" to prevent opening the lid under pressure. Obviously, this is a rule written by idiots, who don't know that it's virtually impossible to open the lid under pressure, just due to the friction imposed by the pressure, but I suppose some idiot probably used a crowbar and managed to do it, hence the new rule.

Unfortunately, most of the "safety" features almost assure that the cooker/canner won't work properly. The "positive lock" feature always leaks too much to allow pressure to build to the "seal point" until you find something to poke into the vent hole to jiggle the piston on the lock - while you wiggle the lid so it can "seat" itself. (This usually results in an eyeball full of steam, or at least a couple of "boiled" fingers, since you can't see the lock piston unless you get really close.)

Older cooker/canners usually had a "variable" weight that allowed 5, 10, or 15 psi use. I have not seen a "modern" one with more than one preset pressure, usually 10 psi, although some use 15 psi. In the interest of being "stupid friendly" (our OSHA friends again) very few of them even tell you which pressure they use.

Units with a pressure gauge are extremely rare, although you may find them if you go to a "commercial cookware" shop. I haven't seen a small one with a dial gauge for several years, and the ones that have them are often enormous relative to my needs.

The "surviving domestic brands" in my area are Presto and Mirro. I have not found it difficult to find gaskets, blowout plugs, and other "maintenance" parts for either, (usually at an "Ace" hardware) although it is a rule that the ones who sell Presto have only Mirro parts, and the ones who sell Mirro have only Presto parts. You do have to hunt a little to find the place that stocks the correct parts for your unit.

This is an item to which the warning is applicable - "it's made to SELL, not to USE." Look them over carefully before falling for a "pretty face." Small features can make a lot of difference in how usable a cooker is. The manufacturer$ don't care if it work$ - as long a$ they can get you to take it home.

John