Charley Noble Revisits Ethiopia 2009

Subject: Charley Noble Revisits Ethiopia 2009
From: Charley Noble
Date: 01 Feb 09 - 10:50 AM

For the last few years I've been thinking about revisiting Ethiopia where I taught science and geography as a Peace Corp Volunteer from 1965-68. It's been over 40 years since I was there but in some ways it seems like yesterday. This year I heard from a fellow returned Peace Corps Volunteer that he was going to be teaching this winter at the University in Addis Ababa, and that triggered my decision for a revisit. I'll be flying out February 17 and, if all goes well, returning March 4.

I plan to keep a journal as I re-explore where I worked. I've also drafted a prologue with music, images, and commentary for anyone who is curious about my experience, which is posted on my website: Click here for website!

I should have a lot more to say when I get back, and many more pictures!

In the meantime I've be happy to answer any questions you might have about this revisit.

Cheerily,
Charley Noble, still resident in snow-covered Maine

Subject: RE: Charley Noble Revisits Ethiopia 2009
From: Ebbie
Date: 01 Feb 09 - 12:16 PM

Peace Corps experiences evidently have lasting effects on volunteers' lives. A friend of mine served in Guyana in the 70s and still visits his 'Guyana Mom'.

I hope you have a most fulfilling visit.

Subject: RE: Charley Noble Revisits Ethiopia 2009
From: Charley Noble
Date: 01 Feb 09 - 12:21 PM

Ebbie-

Thanks for the good wishes.

It's hard to predict what old friends and acquaintances I'll be able to track down but I do have some good leads.

Cheerily,
Charley Noble

Subject: RE: Charley Noble Revisits Ethiopia 2009
From: wysiwyg
Date: 01 Feb 09 - 12:33 PM

I'll be watching this thread with interest. Taking an MP3 recorder?

~Susan

Subject: RE: Charley Noble Revisits Ethiopia 2009
From: Newport Boy
Date: 01 Feb 09 - 12:51 PM

I will also be watching this thread and your website. Ethiopia definitely calls one back. We spent three weeks there in 2002, mainly visiting various projects which we support around Nekemte. This is just off the NW corner of your map. We also drove down the Rift Valley as far as Shashemene.

I'm sure you'll have a great time. Renewing contacts should not be too difficult if you have a few places to start. Personal connections are very important.

Phil

Subject: RE: Charley Noble Revisits Ethiopia 2009
From: Mick Pearce (MCP)
Date: 01 Feb 09 - 01:08 PM

I too was there (84-86 in the State Statistical Office in Addis doing the agriculture pre-harvest forecast and post-harvest estimates) and loved the place. (I also played more and more varied music than at any other time I think!).

I'll follow your trip with interest. Hope you have a great time.

Mick

Subject: RE: Charley Noble Revisits Ethiopia 2009
From: Charley Noble
Date: 01 Feb 09 - 02:48 PM

Guest-

There is music in the link to my website.

Susan-

I will be taking my Edirol R-1 with the hope of recording more work songs. And I'll be taking a cassette of some that I recorded in 1968 in the hope of getting them translated.

Phil and Mick-

Nice to know a few Mudcatters have traveled to Ethiopia. Traveling there via Google-Earth is less expensive but does provide an incredible overview, with high resolution images available for major urban areas.

Cheerily,
Charley Noble

Subject: RE: Charley Noble Revisits Ethiopia 2009
From: Barry Finn
Date: 01 Feb 09 - 04:04 PM

Have a great time Charlie, see you when you get back. I'll be following you.

Barry

Subject: RE: Charley Noble Revisits Ethiopia 2009
From: Barbara
Date: 01 Feb 09 - 05:05 PM

Nice song up at the website, Charlie. Are there more verses to it?
Have a lovely time and don't get thrown in jail when you go looking for your students.
Blessings,
Barbara

Subject: RE: Charley Noble Revisits Ethiopia 2009
From: Charley Noble
Date: 01 Feb 09 - 05:19 PM

Barry-

I'll play the worksong leader your CD; I'm sure he'll get a kick out of it and who knows what his team might be singing the next time an ethnomusicologist comes by! LOL

Barbara-

You can find the full lyrics of "Pastures of Memories" on my website if you click on lyrics and MP3's.

I'll be as careful as I can knowing what I know but I may still be surprised.

Cheerily,
Charley Noble

Subject: RE: Charley Noble Revisits Ethiopia 2009
From: Sandra in Sydney
Date: 01 Feb 09 - 06:54 PM

have fun

sandra

Subject: RE: Charley Noble Revisits Ethiopia 2009
From: katlaughing
Date: 01 Feb 09 - 07:12 PM

This is really neat, Charley! Please do share songs and all of the other great stuff. This will be read with relish!

Subject: RE: Charley Noble Revisits Ethiopia 2009
From: GUEST,.gargoyle
Date: 02 Feb 09 - 05:33 AM

Ahhh a piece of Ethiopian peace to ye and blessings on your trip. But this Noble Charley Horse belongs below the line. With similar logic EVERYTHING would reside in the "upper kingdom."

Sincerely,
Gargoyle

Subject: RE: Charley Noble Revisits Ethiopia 2009
From: Deckman
Date: 02 Feb 09 - 07:00 AM

Charlie ... sounds like a great adventure. Are you taking instruments? Have fun and re-connect. Bob Nelson

Subject: RE: Charley Noble Revisits Ethiopia 2009
From: Charley Noble
Date: 02 Feb 09 - 06:21 PM

Above or below the line, as my Ethiopian friends would say "Min chiguri'n!" or "It troubles me not!"

Bob-

I wont be taking any musical instruments with me. I might raise a drinking song or a shanty if encouraged. And I'll certainly bring my compact recorder, the Edirol R-1.

But part of my mission will be to assess what computer hardware and software will be most useful at the secondary school and for the regional economic development committee (Gurage Peoples Self-Development Organization). Some of the expatriate Ethiopians, our former students living in the States, have already organized a 501-c-3 non-profit organization called The Berkefet IT Project which has gathered together some 40 used computers and accessories and is shipping them to the Gurage country, for the secondary schools. I in turn will be dropping off my older laptop computer this trip, loaded with images of my maps, air photos, and my personal photo collection.

My friend Phil should be arriving today in Addis Ababa. I am anxiously awaiting word that he is settling in.

Besalam (in peace),
Charley Noble

Subject: RE: Charley Noble Revisits Ethiopia 2009
From: Bob Hitchcock
Date: 02 Feb 09 - 08:10 PM

Charley, good luck on your trip and I hope you have a wonderful time. I had the honor of engineering three CD's for a group of Ethiopian musicians here in the Washington D.C. area and they were just incredible people. I have also loved their food for the past 25 years or so which is quite plentiful here.

Have fun.

Bob.

Subject: RE: Charley Noble Revisits Ethiopia 2009
From: Charley Noble
Date: 02 Feb 09 - 10:03 PM

Bob-

DC is, indeed, the home away from home for Ethiopian expatriates.

I do look forward to more Ethiopian cooking in Addis Ababa. However, I've been very fortunate that a small Ethiopian (actually Eritrean) restaurant has survived here in Portland, Maine, for over 5 years. What a delight!

What were the titles of the CD's and where might they be purchased?

Besalam,
Charley Noble

Subject: RE: Charley Noble Revisits Ethiopia 2009
From: Maryrrf
Date: 02 Feb 09 - 10:28 PM

Charley, what a wonderful experience it's going to be. Good for you!

Subject: RE: Charley Noble Revisits Ethiopia 2009
From: Azizi
Date: 02 Feb 09 - 10:50 PM

I'm just popping in to say I also believe you'll have wonderful experiences.

I'll be reading about you trip on your website and hopefully you'll have plenty of stories {and songs} to share on Mudcat as well when you return to the US.

Best wishes,

Azizi

Subject: RE: Charley Noble Revisits Ethiopia 2009
From: catspaw49
Date: 03 Feb 09 - 02:31 AM

Very neat Charley! I knew you hgad a passsion for the place and a desire to return and I'm happy this has wworked out for you.

Thanks again for all the info awhile back on Ethiopian cuisine. KAren and I had a grat meal that first night and have returned to the restaurant several times since......and I just bought a bag of Teff flour too!!!

I'll be reading your reports.

Spaw

Subject: RE: Charley Noble Revisits Ethiopia 2009
From: Charley Noble
Date: 03 Feb 09 - 08:11 AM

Spaw-

I'm pleased that you and Karen had a good experience at your Ethiopian restaurant. "Tef" by the way is the essential grain from which the Ethiopians mix up the "injera", the sourdough pancake used to help consume their tasty and spicy stews. It takes a steady hand to pour the injera batter onto the waq, from the inside out. And it's important not to flip the two-foot pancake over, leaving one side sponge-like to absorb the stew. We found it interesting that the Amharic word for picking up a choice part of the stew in injera and popping it into a neighbor's mouth, "gorsha," was the same word as for "bribe."

Back when I was much younger, we Peace Corps volunteers used to fantasize on how long it would be before Ethiopian restaurants replaced pizza parlors in the States. Invest now!

Besalam,
Charley Noble

Subject: RE: Charley Noble Revisits Ethiopia 2009
From: Newport Boy
Date: 03 Feb 09 - 10:32 AM

Charley -

Like cooking everywhere, there are many different methods. Three photos
here with the batter being poured from the outside in!

I'm not sure about injera replacing pizza - I could eat a pizza every day, but twice a week was enough for injera.

Phil

Subject: RE: Charley Noble Revisits Ethiopia 2009
From: olddude
Date: 03 Feb 09 - 11:29 AM

Charlie
Just come back safe ok

that is all I ask, I know you will have a nice time

Subject: RE: Charley Noble Revisits Ethiopia 2009
From: Charley Noble
Date: 03 Feb 09 - 12:59 PM

Phil-

Nice pixs of the injera pour!

You're right about injera stew every day. I probably will also be sampling the menus of the many other foreign restaurants in Addis Ababa. I recall the teachers who took me to their favorite restaurant for lunch one day near Mexico Square in Addis Ababa. I thought I was used to Ethiopian hot spicy stews. I couldn't speak above a whisper for half an hour! They were very amused.

Besalam,
Charley Noble

Subject: RE: Charley Noble Revisits Ethiopia 2009
From: Charley Noble
Date: 04 Feb 09 - 10:43 PM

The nice folks at the Ethiopian Embassy returned my passport today with a lovely visa all officially stamped on it. 13 days before my flight! No word from Phil. He should be in Addis Ababa by now. He's probably scrambling around trying to set up his apartment, his courses, and other necessities and distractions.

Besalam,
Charley Noble, who can hardly wait to miss this subzero weather

Subject: RE: Charley Noble Revisits Ethiopia 2009
From: Charley Noble
Date: 05 Feb 09 - 07:31 PM

Here's a Gurage folk song to ponder while I gather together a few more essentials:

Chaha, Gurage Country, Ethiopia
Chant transcribed by Dr. Wolf Leslau, 1950
Re-edited by Charlie Ipcar


Raise your eyes and look to the mountains of Daquna!
Brave boys there were, and they were well made,
Like Odja and Agbe and Shorato,
Shafir Fuga and Tidjato,
Like Imam Sidi and Debrato,
Like Oga Abana and Qurato,
All these brave boys -- where have they gone?
They were made an end of and have died.
What hand of theirs has one dared to give to the hyenas?
O death! Let what you have killed be enough!
O hyenas! Let what you have eaten be enough!
What have the mountains of Daquna not seen?
All day the drums, the war cries, and the rife-fire was heard.
What courageous men have been seen on the mountains of Daquna!

Notes from William Shack, 1966:

After the armies of Menelik II conquered the Gurage country, there was no peace for the military colonies established in that country. The heroic fighting of the Chaha Gurage at Daquna is still recounted in folk songs chanted during festivals

See, this thread really does belong above the line. One of the photos on my website shows the hills of Daquna rising above the lower plateau.

Besalam,
Charley Noble

Subject: RE: Charley Noble Revisits Ethiopia 2009
From: Roger in Baltimore
Date: 06 Feb 09 - 12:47 PM

So Charlie, are ya flyin' or taking a sailing ship?

Roger in Baltimore

Subject: RE: Charley Noble Revisits Ethiopia 2009
From: Charley Noble
Date: 06 Feb 09 - 01:04 PM

Roger-

It would be less expensive traveling via shipping crate but there's the risk of the crate residing in a warehouse in Djibouti for an indeterminate time.

Accordingly, I have elected to fly from Boston to Frankfurt, and then to Addis Ababa. It's about 26 hours with a long lay-over in Germany.

Besalam,
Charley Noble

Subject: RE: Charley Noble Revisits Ethiopia 2009
From: Bob Hitchcock
Date: 06 Feb 09 - 07:57 PM

Charley, The CD's I worked on were put out by a group of ex-pats here in D.C. I am not sure if all of them were released, but one I know came out about 10 years ago, it's called "Chewata" I think and traces 150 years of Ethiopian history through music and stories. Many musicians cam in to sing and play on it from all over the world, included the former professor of traditional music at the University of Addis Ababa. The producer was a chap named Abrahim Wolde who I understand was a TV star over there for a while, very interesting fellow. He told me that Haile Selase's grandaughter wrote to thank him for doing the project. I may still have a promo copy lying around the studio somewhere so pm me if you are interested.

I lost touch with them shortly after they completed the recordings as they had some problems paying the final bill, so I got stiffed but am a better person for having known them and their music.

Good luck on the trip.

Bob.

Subject: RE: Charley Noble Revisits Ethiopia 2009
From: catspaw49
Date: 06 Feb 09 - 08:22 PM

My first attempt at injera was a "qualified" success.....the flavor was right and the texture, if not the size!

I hope all goes well.....The young diplomat who was just killed there was from Columbus so its been in the news a lot and I thought of you immediately. Have a good time but keep your head down!



Spaw

Subject: RE: Charley Noble Revisits Ethiopia 2009
From: Charley Noble
Date: 06 Feb 09 - 10:00 PM

Bob-

Thanks for the additional info on the recording project. International recording experiences can be as stressful as domestic ones!

Spaw-

I'll have to track down that story. I didn't find it on my usual Ethiopian news website.

Besalam,
Charley Noble

Subject: RE: Charley Noble Revisits Ethiopia 2009
From: Charley Noble
Date: 06 Feb 09 - 10:05 PM

Ah, a brief story is there. No details. Here's the link for future reference: Click here for news of Ethiopia

There's also a lot of personal opinion posted in the comments section of this website.

Besalam,
Charley Noble

Subject: RE: Charley Noble Revisits Ethiopia 2009
From: Charley Noble
Date: 07 Feb 09 - 09:03 PM

Hmmm?

Still no word from Phil. Has he disappeared from the face of the earth? Does Ethiopia really exist or is it a figment of our collective unconscious? Only time will tell!

Here's another traditional Gurage song, just a fragment, which hints at how they felt abandoned by their gods when the Galla tribe invaded their land:

As told by Fresenbet Gezachow in spring of 1968
Emdeber, Gurage, Ethiopia
Chant re-transcribed and edited by Charles Ipcar
Peace Corps Volunteer Ethiopia 1965-1968


Ageto! You are said to be Ageto!

Ageto, there is a day when you will be remembered, not only one day but for all days.

Ageto, once Chaha played a trick on you; so you grew angry and flew away to a place called Yenor-afur.

At Yenor-afur a woman called Assuyate caught you and kept you in a water jug for two years.

Later, after two years, it is said that you went off to Yoqupaiye-afur.

While you were gone the Galla came and plundered our lands.

Why did you go from Yechaha-afur?

Please turn your face towards Yechaha-afur once more!

Ageto, father of our children, come today, wherever you may be, whether in Shoa or Soyama.

Please come today, wherever you may be!

There was a man called Tassew who went to his uncle's house for a visit.

They gave his horse Subrimo grain but the horse wouldn't eat.

Tassew knew by this that something had happened in Chaha.

The man called Tassew went forth from his uncle's house to see Chaha.

Tassew then went to the Galla lands, crossing the Wake River in the dark.

Then Yechaha Waq (Sky-god) came and led Tassew through the Galla lands, and they were able to return all the things which had been captured by the Galla.

Waq, come today to your home country, where you belong!

"Waq" by the way is the Star God; "Chaha" is one of the seven major tribes of the House of Seven Gurage Tribes (Ye Sabat Bet Gurage).

Besalam,
Charley Noble

Subject: RE: Charley Noble Revisits Ethiopia 2009
From: Charley Noble
Date: 10 Feb 09 - 08:06 AM

Just got a re-assuring e-mail from my old friend Phil that he is now resident in Addis Ababa. He sent me some nice pixs of his comfortable digs and, more importantly, directions for the taxi cab driver from Bole International Airport.

We're now planning to head out to the Gurage country the first weekend, which should set things up for a follow-up visit which I may do solo.

One week to go!

Basalam,
Charley Noble

Subject: RE: Charley Noble Revisits Ethiopia 2009
From: Charley Noble
Date: 15 Feb 09 - 12:30 PM

This trip is getting more real. I've actually got my suitcase packed, my laptop and backpack organized, and my various travel documents where I can find them. And the weather looks great for flying out of Logan in Boston on Tuesday.

Another landmark (via GoogleEarth) for our base camp in Ethiopia is the Addis Ababa Home Depot store, right across from our 8-story apartment building (the entire block is shaded in blues which may recognize the fact that it's new construction.

There's a new Peace Corps program that's been recently re-initiated in Ethiopia, focused on public health issues, which I may check out.

Besalam,
Charley Noble

Subject: RE: Charley Noble Revisits Ethiopia 2009
From: Charley Noble
Date: 15 Feb 09 - 05:12 PM

Oh, the building across the street should be called "Addis Home Depot" which translates as the New Home Depot.

Charley Noble

Subject: RE: Charley Noble Revisits Ethiopia 2009
From: Maryrrf
Date: 15 Feb 09 - 06:03 PM

Charlie, this sounds very exciting. Be sure to post lots of pictures!

Subject: RE: Charley Noble Revisits Ethiopia 2009
From: Sandy Mc Lean
Date: 15 Feb 09 - 08:10 PM

God speed Charey! Have a great trip!

Subject: RE: Charley Noble Revisits Ethiopia 2009
From: Charley Noble
Date: 15 Feb 09 - 09:49 PM

Mary and Sandy-

It's getting even more interesting to me. I'm not really doing the tourist thing but more revisiting, and it's not that clear how the world that's there now correlates with the world I left in 1968. There have been three major shifts in government, a massive drought or two. The capital city has mushroomed from 600,000 to over 4 million (Maine's largest city has less than 100,000).

At the same time I have leads to all kinds of interesting people, some directing economic development in rural areas, some academics, and some former students. There are plenty of wild cards in this deck!

I'll also probably pay a visit to the newly re-established Peace Corps office; the new volunteers are specialized in public health issues. My generation of volunteers were more focused on teaching in the secondary schools. The net effect of what we did was probably to shift the system from traditional old line British rote memorization to critical thinking; no one told us to do this but it was what we were hard-wired to do! We were also a large portion of the secondary teaching staff, almost a third of the teachers. For better or worse we had a major impact on the educational system.

So I enter a time machine of sorts next Tuesday, emerge in present day Ethiopia and try to sort out the changes. The results will not be particularly critical (nor dangerous) but they will be interesting, and in some ways amusing!

Besalam,
Charley Noble

Subject: RE: Charley Noble Revisits Ethiopia 2009
From: Newport Boy
Date: 16 Feb 09 - 10:47 AM

Hmmm, Charley

I'm not sure your earlier efforts made a long-term shift in the educational system. Our visits to 4 primary and one secondary schools (in another area) showed the rote learning system alive and well. With primary classes of 60 to 100 it's difficult to do much else, particularly when Year 4 in one school had an age range from 8 to 17!

I'll be interested in how you find it.

Phil

Subject: RE: Charley Noble Revisits Ethiopia 2009
From: Charley Noble
Date: 16 Feb 09 - 12:49 PM

Phil-

Maybe not. But that was the conclusion of one team of researchers. I'll have to check and see how far back their research was conducted.

Besalam,
Charley Noble

Subject: RE: Charley Noble Revisits Ethiopia 2009
From: Mo' Handy
Date: 16 Feb 09 - 05:28 PM

Bon voyage, Mr. Noble.
There's some likelihood now that I won't be back from India in time for the Peaks Island show. Not sure what to do about that.

Subject: RE: Charley Noble Revisits Ethiopia 2009
From: curmudgeon
Date: 16 Feb 09 - 05:34 PM

Fair winds, Charley! See you in March - Tom

Subject: RE: Charley Noble Revisits Ethiopia 2009
From: Barry Finn
Date: 16 Feb 09 - 06:23 PM

Have a safe trip Charlie.

Barry

Subject: RE: Charley Noble Revisits Ethiopia 2009
From: Charley Noble
Date: 17 Feb 09 - 09:21 AM

Thanks, gang, for the good wishes!

I'm rolling out the door.

I hope you all remember to feed the parrot! (You're supposed to look blank and then say "What parrot?")

Cheerily,
Charley Noble

Subject: RE: Charley Noble Revisits Ethiopia 2009
From: Charley Noble
Date: 20 Feb 09 - 11:49 AM

I am alive and well here in Addis Ababa. The computer service at our neighborhood hotel is very slow but I now have an operating cellphone, a set of new maps, and tomorrow a group of us are heading out to the village where I used to teach school.

Addis Ababa is ten times larger than when I was last here, now at 5 million, five times more populated than Maine! But many things remain the same. LOL

I can't seem to access my e-mail which is frustrating but it might work better from a different internet location.

We're living in a nice 4th floor apartment in the old airport sector of the city. It's one of the newer buildings but there are plenty of more older modest buildings around and feverish construction activity. The food is great!

Besalam,
Charley Noble

Subject: RE: Charley Noble Revisits Ethiopia 2009
From: Sandra in Sydney
Date: 20 Feb 09 - 08:38 PM

wow! the adventure starts.

Subject: RE: Charley Noble Revisits Ethiopia 2009
From: GUEST,Brother Bob
Date: 22 Feb 09 - 05:12 PM

Silence - did he say something about taking pictures of crocodiles?
The adventure ends?

Subject: RE: Charley Noble Revisits Ethiopia 2009
From: Barry Finn
Date: 23 Feb 09 - 11:00 AM

Hi Brother Bob
Don't end his adventure to quickly, he won't be able to shovel out your parking space to a song if it ends like that.
Nice of you to drop in & say hi to Charles

Barry

Subject: RE: Charley Noble Revisits Ethiopia 2009
From: JudyB
Date: 23 Feb 09 - 12:34 PM

We won't talk about shoveling - someone visiting a place where the lows are in the upper 40s and the highs are in the 70s just wouldn't understand! Fortunately we have a good plow guy, and someone to shovel the walks while he's away.

I was thinking he'd be back in Addis Ababa today after his jaunt into the countryside, but I know he's been having trouble finding internet connections. I think it's about 8:30 at night there now - so suspect it may be tomorrow before we hear the next chapter in his adventures!

JudyB