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Help request on railroad spikes

E.Michael 10 Apr 00 - 05:40 PM
Amos 10 Apr 00 - 05:48 PM
GUEST,Bruce O. 10 Apr 00 - 05:56 PM
BanjoRay 10 Apr 00 - 07:32 PM
GUEST 10 Apr 00 - 07:43 PM
5-string 10 Apr 00 - 08:25 PM
Uncle_DaveO 11 Apr 00 - 02:39 PM
Jon W. 11 Apr 00 - 02:42 PM
DonMeixner 12 Apr 00 - 12:47 AM
DonMeixner 12 Apr 00 - 12:49 AM
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Subject: Help request on railroad spikes
From: E.Michael
Date: 10 Apr 00 - 05:40 PM

I ran across some information on how to install model railroad spikes as 5th string 'capos', but I can't relocate the information. Does anyone know where I may have seen it,or can anyone come up with some information on the subject?


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Subject: RE: Help request on railroad spikes
From: Amos
Date: 10 Apr 00 - 05:48 PM

I have seen tiny spikes used on fifth strings -- they are sunk in close to the fret, and when you are capoing on the second fret, for example, you "notch" the fifth string on its own second fret by slipping it under the head of the spike, moving the high G to an A. I have never done this myself, though! :>)


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Subject: RE: Help request on railroad spikes
From: GUEST,Bruce O.
Date: 10 Apr 00 - 05:56 PM

Long ago when I was a model railroader I was aware of a special tool for inserting them, but I didn't have one. My stock of spikes went mostly unused because without the tool you hammer your finger and thumb a lot more than you do the spikes.


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Subject: RE: Help request on railroad spikes
From: BanjoRay
Date: 10 Apr 00 - 07:32 PM

I hope this works! You can get instructions for installing a railroad spike on a banjo Here

I've just put one in my new Dwight Diller Model Lo Gordon banjo, and I was extremely nervous. I used a hand drill instead of an electric one because in the past I've snapped these very thin drills and had difficulty getting the piece of drill out of the hole. Hand drills are safer.

Good Luck

Ray


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Subject: RE: Help request on railroad spikes
From: GUEST
Date: 10 Apr 00 - 07:43 PM

Pin vises are safer than hand drills.


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Subject: RE: Help request on railroad spikes
From: 5-string
Date: 10 Apr 00 - 08:25 PM

There was some good info on a thread called Banjo Player questions started on 23 march - search for banjo over the last 30 days, and it is there. The info on where to get spikes and tools starts a few pages into the thread. Hope this helps. 5-string


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Subject: RE: Help request on railroad spikes
From: Uncle_DaveO
Date: 11 Apr 00 - 02:39 PM

There's an excellent article at www.banjo-l.com. Or is that www.banjol.com, without the hyphen? I printed it out and gave it to the technician who was going to do my work, and he was very appreciative. He said he could have done it without the article, but getting input from others who have experience is always good--there just MIGHT be a few extra tips in there.

Dave Oesterreich


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Subject: RE: Help request on railroad spikes
From: Jon W.
Date: 11 Apr 00 - 02:42 PM

I've only ever installed one spike so far so take this with a grain of salt. But it worked and I intend to do it again when I get time to work on banjos again. The spike I installed was actually behind the fifth fret, in place of a fifth string nut, a la Deering. The theory is the same, though. The link provided by Banjo Ray is a good start. The trick is to get the right size of drill bit. What I did was this: I started with a small brad, cut of the head, and chucked the rest of it in my drill, pointy end out. Then I proceeded to drill into a scrap of the fretboard material, and then lightly file the brad smaller (while running the drill to keep it round) until the hole was just the right size - it didn't take long.

In the Winter 2000 Stewart MacDOonald catalog there is an article on this subject that good. Todd Sams, the technician that wrote it, recommends filing the heads of the spikes smooth and flatter (so they're below the level of the fret tops to avoid buzzing), shortening the hook on the spikes, locating them about midway between the frets (he says it makes it easier to hook the string under and pulls it less out of tune), and also using a feeler gauge (.012") under the head when driving the spike in to keep from going in too far and losing the gap. He also locates them a little to bass side of the string to give the string a little more tension to hold it in the gap (this assumes that the gap is facing the bass side).

Jon W. (would-be banjo builder)


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Subject: RE: Help request on railroad spikes
From: DonMeixner
Date: 12 Apr 00 - 12:47 AM

I hav an old Buckby Banjo with spikes at 7, 9, 10. I used a spike in a dremel tool to predrill the figer board to about I/3 the depth I needed. put a tiny drop of 5 Minute epoxy in the hole and then I drove in the spike to a depth equal to a folded business card. Also, put the spke on the bottom side of the 5th string with the tang of the spike facing down. I had this same set up on my Ode long neck until I bought a Shubb 5th string capo.

Don


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Subject: RE: Help request on railroad spikes
From: DonMeixner
Date: 12 Apr 00 - 12:49 AM

I hav an old Buckby Banjo with spikes at 7, 9, 10. I used a spike in a dremel tool to predrill the figer board to about I/3 the depth I needed. put a tiny drop of 5 Minute epoxy in the hole and then I drove in the spike to a depth equal to the thickness of a folded business card. Also, put the spke on the bottom side of the 5th string with the tang of the spike facing down. I had this same set up on my Ode long neck until I bought a Shubb 5th string capo.

Don


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