Help: violin strings

Subject: new violin strings + tuning
From: Seany
Date: 06 Mar 01 - 08:48 AM

I have just bought some Dominant violin strings.

I asked in the shop about string types and they didn't know much so they didn't tell me that there were Soft, Medium and Hard types of Dominant.

The ones I have are medium.

Is this o.k. for Irish folk music or should I bring them back.

Also I have never changed violin strings before - I'm such a beginner ! - are there any rules I should follow.

I have already heard that I shouldn't tune up to full pitch straight away but that I should do it gradually over a few hours/day/week (which is the right one ? ).

Any advice welcome - I've already looked at the other threads.

Subject: RE: Help: violin strings
From: Malcolm Douglas
Date: 06 Mar 01 - 09:03 AM

All this really depends on the fiddle.  Strings can sound quite different on different instruments, but medium would seem to be a sensible start; you can always try variations next time.  I've used Dominants from time to time, but I can't remember which type (I tend to prefer narrower, all-metal strings, and have had good results from Pirastros with a Dominant E as spare).  The same goes for tuning; some instruments will take a new string quickly and maintain pitch fairly well straight away, others prefer you to work up to pitch gradually.  If you haven't been playing long, and if the fiddle hasn't been played much either, then I should take it slowly to begin with; change -and retune- one string at a time so that you don't risk moving the bridge or soundpost out of line; keeping the tension on the instrument even is always a good plan.  Don't forget to stretch the strings manually a little from time to time as you raise the pitch; this will help.

Malcolm

Subject: RE: Help: violin strings
From: Shall
Date: 06 Mar 01 - 09:59 AM

I have found that strings can make a profound difference in the voice of the violin. Exploring the different types of strings can be expensive but worth while. When I hear a fiddler playing and like his sound, I ask him about the string brand. Shar music explains in their catalog the differences in the string brands. I used Dominant for years but was never really happy with the sound until I tried the Obligato line. I wasn't happy with the Obligato E Sting so I tried an Olive E string.The strings have the warmth of gut. It takes 2 days for the stings to set in and be stable, they hold up well in temperature changes. I play everything from Early music, renaissance, celtic music to Jazz on these strings. With hit and miss I finally found out what stings work for me and my fiddle.

Subject: RE: Help: violin strings
From: Kim C
Date: 06 Mar 01 - 05:16 PM

Well, you do have to change them one at a time but you probably knew that. ;)

I use Helicore strings - I had a Dominant G once as a spare and I absolutely HATED it. Didn't like the way it sounded and it felt scaly underneath my finger. Very weird. And those are pretty expensive strings. Now I make sure I have an extry set in the case.

I do want to try Pirastro, though - a pard has some on one of his instruments and it sounds FAB.

I agree that you should probably swallow hard and just try several different kinds, as there are so many variables involved in what strings sound good on which violin. What sounds good on mine may not sound good on yours. At least we know the string manufacturers will be in business for a Long Time!

Subject: RE: Help: violin strings
From: Sorcha
Date: 06 Mar 01 - 06:22 PM

As noted above, which strings to use really, really depends on the instrument, and how you are going to use them. I have one fiddle (well, no. She would kill me if I called her that, She is a violin) that loves Dominants. My fiddlefiddle, Maggie O'Mhaille the B***ch, will not stand for Dominants. She wants only cheap Red Label Old Fidders.

Trust me, I have tried to get her to accept other things, but she is not buying. I've tried Helicores, Prims, Dominants, D'Addarios, but only the cheap will do for Our Maggie.

If the instrument has been tuned before, I see no reason at all not to bring them up to pitch as you change them. If it is New to You, check the gut loop that holds the tailpiece to the end pin. If it breaks, it will scare the shit out of you, but unless the soundpost falls, no real harm is done.

Your real problem is going to be if you have fine tuners all the way across, or a fine tuner tailpiece.....Dominants are not designed for fine tuners, except for the E. There is no ball in the loop, so the loop must be forced into the slot in the tuner, and this causes it to break much more easily.

Subject: RE: Help: violin strings
From:
Date: 07 Mar 01 - 12:23 AM

One rule for changing strings on a violin Seany is to change them one at a time. Under one foot of the bridge is a soundpost that is only held in place by the bridge bearing down due to the tension on the strings. If you take all the strings off the bridge will fall over and the soundpost most likely will fall down inside the body. If you were to rectify the bridge and not have the soundpost refixed, you might crack the belly under the foot of the bridge.

I am not a fiddler myself but my late wife was one. She sometimes used Kaplan strings which are marketed in the US by D'Addario. They are a little cheaper than the Pirastro line and are more brilliant than Dominants.

There are "Black Diamond Bluegrass strings". I think they are to be shunned like their dreaded guitar counterparts.

Murray

Subject: RE: Help: violin strings
From: Ruthie A
Date: 07 Mar 01 - 05:49 PM

I've always used Dominants, because my old fiddle teacher refused to go near anything that wasn't Dominant-strung. Just as well that I like them, really. I only ever use my fiddle for folk, and those are the strings I find suit my fiddle best. She's a very mellow-sounding 200-yr-old beauty, and is very fussy about strings. I play in sessions too much though - my strings corrode themselves after a month. If you have acidic hands (I do, as my flute found out, argh), it helps to wipe the strings off with a Guinness towel or duster when you've finished playing.

Ruthie

Subject: RE: Help: violin strings
From: Seany
Date: 08 Mar 01 - 06:00 AM

Thanks,

I have put the dominants on, I will tune them up to full pitch in the next few days.

I was really useless when it came to putting them on. I took them all off at once - I didn;t get a chance to read the posting.

I don't think my cheap Stentor 1 violin has a soundpost and I didn't seem to crack anything.

The bit that holds the strings fell off (what is it called ?) and I had a lot of trouble getting the first string on as I had to hold this piece in place and put the string on, and catch the ball end under the adjuster.

What a mess !!

Subject: RE: Help: violin strings
From: English Jon
Date: 08 Mar 01 - 07:40 AM

Yes, you should try to change strings one at a time. Having said that, on most fiddles, the sound post will probably stay up if you take all the strings off, (If it falls over, get a bit of stiff wire with a sharp end, spear the post in the middle and put it back up.)

With regard to strings.

Prim are nice and loud and bright, Pirastro tonica are warmer but quieter. Martin Bluegrass take a month to settle and then sound pretty much like prim (not quite as good, but so much cheaper)

I don't like dominants, but I know plenty of people who do.

Hope that Helps.

Jon

Subject: RE: Help: violin strings
From: Seany
Date: 08 Mar 01 - 11:48 AM

keeping the tension the same and changing them one at a time seems like contradictory advice !

Subject: RE: Help: violin strings
From: GUEST,Nick P.
Date: 08 Mar 01 - 11:54 AM

If you've taken all the strings off at once,make sure that as you tune to full tension the bridge stays perfectly up right, and in the correct position. To check the position, look along the bridge (accross the fiddle) and the leading edge on both ends should line up with the pair of notches in the "f" holes.If its wrong the finger positions for each note may vary slightly from string to string.To correct, de-tune slightly and carefuly slide the bridge to the correct position.

Subject: RE: Help: violin strings
From:
Date: 08 Mar 01 - 03:18 PM

Cape Breton fiddlers Natalie MacMaster and Jerry Holland use Pirastro Chromcor strings. I tried them a year or so ago and am very happy with them. I order mine from Shar Products;

http://www.sharmusic.com

Their toll free number is 1-800-248-7427. Don't get discouraged with your fiddling; stay after it. It'll come. Good luck!

Subject: RE: Help: violin strings
From:
Date: 09 Mar 01 - 04:07 AM

My wife used to put on the strings one at a time. As she put them on she would tune them up several tones below playing pitch. After all the strings were on and the bridge and soundpost were secured, she would bring them up to pitch in the usual way. " "A" string first then "D" and "E" tuned to that, then "G" tuned to "D".

Murray

Subject: RE: Help: violin strings
From: Seany
Date: 09 Mar 01 - 07:17 AM

I have discovered the soundpost - it looks ok.

Nick: Thanks for the bridge tip.

One thing I have noticed is that my bridge is not symmetrical. One side has a sharper incline.

Which way round should the bridge be ?

Subject: RE: Help: violin strings
From: Marion
Date: 09 Mar 01 - 07:58 AM

Sorcha, I just have to say that I love the way you talk about your instruments here. I hope someday we have a relationship like that.

Marion

Subject: RE: Help: violin strings
From: Marion
Date: 09 Mar 01 - 08:04 AM

Um, I mean me and my instruments. Didn't intend to make it sound like I was coming on to you.

Marion

Subject: RE: Help: violin strings
From: GUEST,Nick.P.
Date: 09 Mar 01 - 01:04 PM

Hi, if your bridge is not symmetrical,then put the low side to the "E", (If you play conventionally, bowing with the right.)Otherwise, as a rule of thumb, low side nearest the ear. Glad I could be of assistance. Nick.P.

Subject: RE: Help: violin strings
From: GUEST,Seany
Date: 13 Mar 01 - 07:41 AM

Everyone,

thanks,

I have really made a lot of mistakes this time round but now I understand what is going on.

Putting the strings on a violin is actually quite complicated and there should be instructions in the packet.

People need to know :

What way round to put the bridge. Not to take all the strings off at once. What pegs to put the strings onto. What to do if the sound post slips. Not to tune to full pitch to quickly in case of a string snap.

A simple leaflet would suffice !

Also the packet should say what type of music the strings are best suited too.