Subject: Glue for uke repair? From: AllisonA(Animaterra) Date: 27 Apr 04 - 12:25 PM It had to happen- it's a wonder it didn't happen sooner! My elementary school was graced with 24 un-sought-after ukuleles, which we have enjoyed all year. One of them fell yesterday and the top has split from the body. I think it's a matter of a simple glue job but I want to do a good job the first time. What would be the right kind of glue? Allison |
Subject: RE: Glue for uke repair? From: Bee-dubya-ell Date: 27 Apr 04 - 12:47 PM The glue usually used for constructing and repairing wooden instruments is hide glue. It used to be a bit tricky to use because it came in granular form and you had to melt it in a double boiler and use it within a certain time. Fortunately, it's now available premixed in plastic bottles just like regular white household glue and carpenter's glue. It's should be available at any well-stocked hardware or home center store. The advantage of hide glue is that it releases at a relatively low heat so future repairs can be done more easily. If your first repair attempt doesn't do well, just heat up the glue joints with a blow dryer, take the thing apart, clean it up a little and do it again. |
Subject: RE: Glue for uke repair? From: DonMeixner Date: 27 Apr 04 - 12:54 PM Allison, An awful lot of fine guitars and ukes are held together with Titebond and/or Elmer's White glue. Takes awhile to set, cleans up with water. Hide glue is great but hard to use. Epoxy is a no no, And tacky Glue is a waste of time. Good luck Don |
Subject: RE: Glue for uke repair? From: mooman Date: 27 Apr 04 - 01:57 PM I always use hide glue and I prefer the pearl (granule) form because I can control the viscosity better. A blunt but thin warmed up table knife (bone handle optional) is also great for working and loosening joints. Please no epoxy or cyanoacrylate in case I should ever get it for repair in the future! Peace moo |
Subject: RE: Glue for uke repair? From: DonMeixner Date: 27 Apr 04 - 02:36 PM I agree with Moo, but few people possess a glue pot or know how to work with hot hide glue. I think in Allison's predicament unless these are Martin's or old Regals some Elmer's and carefull clamping or even weights applied in the right location will have this Uke up and running agai. Allison, te tune the strings or take them off completely before you begin. Don |
Subject: RE: Glue for uke repair? From: AllisonA(Animaterra) Date: 27 Apr 04 - 03:24 PM This is even cheaper than a Martin or Regal- they are "Mahalo" bran, made in China of thin plywood and some garish enamel paint. Nice enough sound, though, and the kids love them. Thanks for the advice- if the local h-ware stores don't have hide glue I'll try Elmer's! Allison |
Subject: RE: Glue for uke repair? From: EBarnacle Date: 28 Apr 04 - 12:25 AM Since they are cheapo's, try resorcinol. It is water soluble and is water resistant. It is harder to remove once set than white glue but is also more durable. |
Subject: RE: Glue for uke repair? From: GUEST,LEL Date: 28 Feb 13 - 03:31 PM what type of glue was used before 1940 on ukes? |
Subject: RE: Glue for uke repair? From: Bonecruncher Date: 28 Feb 13 - 05:32 PM As a woodworker and furniture restorer I would suggest only Titebond Liquid Hide Glue as this is closest to the original glue used in the manufacture. As previously stated it is reversible should it be neccessary in the future. It is the only glue recommended by antique furniture restorers. Any other glue will clog the pores of the wood and make future repairs nigh on impossible. Colyn. |
Subject: RE: Glue for uke repair? From: GUEST Date: 28 Feb 13 - 06:29 PM you can easily make a hude glue glue pot but buying a big pot and a little pot at a thrift store, you boil water in the big pot and mix the hide glue in the little one set inot the big one. this is if you want to control the density and viscossity of the glue. add more crystals to make it thicker and add more water to make it thinner. it doesn't set too quickly and can always be removed to try again. |
Subject: RE: Glue for uke repair? From: JohnInKansas Date: 01 Mar 13 - 12:50 AM You can also use a "double boiler" commonly available at almost any housewares store. A pot for the glue nests into the top of a pot for the water, usually with a lid to keep the fuzz out of the glue while heating - or between uses. Based on the observation that most luthiers' glue pots are pretty much "surrounded by glue" it might be best to have a dedicated pot and hotplate if you're doing more than a little repair work. John |
Subject: RE: Glue for uke repair? From: GUEST Date: 01 Mar 13 - 06:12 AM If it's only a cheap uke white glue will do. Don't fuss like it's a vintage Martin. |
Subject: RE: Glue for uke repair? From: AllisonA(Animaterra) Date: 01 Mar 13 - 02:47 PM Wow- this is the third old thread of mine that I've found revived today! WhennI posted this, I had no idea I would marry a violin maker/stringed instrument restorer/antiques expert with a penchant for hide glue! Would have been a waste on the cheap Mahalos, but I've seen him work wonders on a vintage Gibson mandolin, countless old violins, and some vintage Martin and other ukes that have come into the workshop! |
Subject: RE: Glue for uke repair? From: GUEST,Cap't Bob Date: 01 Mar 13 - 10:19 PM For working with hide glue I've found that a small crock pot does a super job when used for mixing the glue. They are available at most flea markets for around a buck. Mine keeps the temperature at around 140 deg. F. Cap't Bob |
Subject: RE: Glue for uke repair? From: Deckman Date: 01 Mar 13 - 11:20 PM CUIDADO ... LOOK OUT ... BE CAREFUL ... I do want to give a serious warning about working with "resorcial glue." As a woodworker all my life, I worked with this glue a LOT in the early sixties. In those days it was primarly used in the wooden boat building shops. Be very careful ... it's a two part mix and the brown powder is formaldehyde ... I'M GOING TO LEAVE IT TO OTHER TO CORRECT MY SPELLING! This product is the main ingrediant in embalming fluid and I know several fellow workers who burned their inner nostrils out from the fumes. BUT ... it sure was waterproof. bob(deckman)nelson |
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