BS: Bloody Superglue!!

Subject: BS: Bloody Superglue!!
From: John MacKenzie
Date: 06 May 06 - 12:19 PM

Once again I had to throw out a tube of superglue before it was even half finished. Why is it that when you want to glue two plastic pieces together with superglue it doesn't work, yet when you're not looking the cap sticks onto the tube like it was welded?
I have tried all sorts of storage solutions, including wedging the tube in an upright position.
Surely I am not the only one.
Surely someone out there has actually finished a tube !!
Giok
[Who has paid for dozens of tubes but not yet used one.]

Subject: RE: BS: Bloody Superglue!!
From: Amos
Date: 06 May 06 - 12:23 PM

Giok:

Welcome back to the world of the truly hip!

Here's a tune about your troubles from an old song challenge.

All I can offer, sorry! :D


A

Subject: RE: BS: Bloody Superglue!!
From: Bert
Date: 06 May 06 - 12:38 PM

I know exactly what you mean Giok, I find exactly the same thing, the stuff never works when you needed to.

Yet a few years ago I worked for a company who used it to stick steel to plastic and it worked all the time. They used to but it in small bottles whos caps never stuck.

I swear that the stuff is prejudiced.

Subject: RE: BS: Bloody Superglue!!
From: Scooby Doo
Date: 06 May 06 - 12:43 PM

I know what you mean you use it once and thats it no chance of using the glue again.
Its goood to see you back on your feet Giok.
Scooby

Subject: RE: BS: Bloody Superglue!!
From: GUEST,leeneia
Date: 06 May 06 - 12:52 PM

Thanks for the link to the song about superglue, Amos. I enjoyed it.

Bert, I think you are right about the stuff being prejudiced. I don't think I have ever made a successful join with superglue, yet other people seem to glue everything, including their fingers and eyelashes, with it.

Subject: RE: BS: Bloody Superglue!!
From: Toenails John
Date: 06 May 06 - 01:06 PM

Really this is all a conspiracy by multi national criminal masterminds, trading in such names as loctite and so on. But we the honest, hard working genuine people, (morons) quite happily trip along with the plan.
Take my point from this perspective. If you bought a brand of toothpaste, bottle of milk or ANY OTHER PRODUCT BAR SUPERGLUE, and it self sealed itself before it was empty, and rendered itself useless, fit for the bin, you would be bringing it back to the shop, or company demanding a refund WHY DON'T WE DO IT WITH SUPERGLUE?? The masterminds inject a mind numbing drug, which removes peoples logical sense, and also makes them prone to dropping plates, cups, standing on toys, in the knowledge that the bottle will self seal, you won't complain, go out and buy the same thing again, and set up a vicious circle that will continue for many years. The money from this lewd operation goes into criminal dealings and into manufacturing plates cups and china products with hidden perforations. You know the plate you pop on the table and it simply falls in half? ah ha!........... maybe I should go now............ yes maybe I should............ need a beer!

Tj

Subject: RE: BS: Bloody Superglue!!
From: JennyO
Date: 06 May 06 - 01:10 PM

Only today I was trying out a tube I had used once and wiped carefully, then stood up on its end a couple of weeks ago. The lid was only a little bit stuck, and I even managed to unblock the nozzle, and it hasn't gone hard yet. Nearly welded my fingers together in the process though, and I can still feel bits of superglue on them.

I'm convinced they put it in tubes on purpose, so we'll only get one or two uses out of them, then have to go back and buy more. I did once manage to buy superglue in a little squat bottle, which was great! I got a lot of use out of that one. Ya think I've been able to find another one like it since then? Not a chance :-(

Subject: RE: BS: Bloody Superglue!!
From: Sorcha
Date: 06 May 06 - 01:15 PM

I feel your pain.

Subject: RE: BS: Bloody Superglue!!
From: Bill D
Date: 06 May 06 - 01:32 PM

I use superglue almost every day in my wood turning ...and the secret, what there is of one, is to use better quality brands:

http://www.hobbylinc.com/prods/rgc_hot.htm (There are other brands...even cheaper...but HotStuff is the best, and has a better curing time ration between the types)...it comes in 3 consistencies.

and to follow these guidelines:

http://www.woodfinishsupply.com/HOT.html

Those little tubes from the hardware store are a PAIN...if you must use them, try a straight pin, preferably with a bit head to grasp, stick in the hole. It can usually be pulled out with a good grip.

Even with the good bottles, care must be taken to keep the opening clear...a little tap on the counter immediately will get most of the stuff back down, and running a pin into it before it hardens can help.

Even then I often get clogs...but with the bottles, I can unscrew the cap and use an ice pick (or very small drill bit) to clear it.

Note...it is MOISTURE which accelerates the hardening...not just exposure to air. In a very dry room, a bottle could even be left open.

Subject: RE: BS: Bloody Superglue!!
From: Bill D
Date: 06 May 06 - 01:33 PM

oh...it is good to have a de-bonder near. Nail polish remover will do in a pinch if you dont want to spring for the professional type.

Subject: RE: BS: Bloody Superglue!!
From: open mike
Date: 06 May 06 - 02:19 PM

ACETONE WILL REMOVE IT.

SOME USE IT FOR SURGICAL USE..
TO REPAIR TORN AND CUT SKIN..

PROBABLY LEARNED THE HARD WAY..

Subject: RE: BS: Bloody Superglue!!
From: CarolC
Date: 06 May 06 - 02:31 PM

After supergluing myself to altogether too many things, I have sworn off using superglue. I now use a glue gun. Woudn't know how to function without it.

Subject: RE: BS: Bloody Superglue!!
From: Joe Offer
Date: 06 May 06 - 02:37 PM

I read somewhere that superglue was developed for use by the U.S. troops in Vietnam, to temporarily hold wounds together in the battlefield, until injured soldiers could be flown to a hospital.
Is that true?
-Joe-

Subject: RE: BS: Bloody Superglue!!
From: Peace
Date: 06 May 06 - 03:08 PM

History
Cyanoacrylate was discovered by Harry Coover at Eastman Kodak during World War II when searching for a way to make synthetic gun-sights (a substitute for spider silk). It did not solve this problem, since it stuck to all the apparatus used to handle it. It was patented in 1956 and developed into Eastman 910 adhesive in 1958. The new glue was demonstrated in 1959 on the television show I've Got a Secret when the host Garry Moore was lifted into the air by two steel plates held together with a drop of Eastman 910. Cyanoacrylates are now a family of adhesives based on similar chemistry.

[edit]
Medicine
The use of cyanoacrylate glues in medicine was considered fairly early on. Eastman Kodak and Ethicon began studying whether the glues could be used to hold human tissue together after surgery. In 1964, Eastman submitted an application to use cyanoacrylate glues to seal wounds to the United States Food and Drug Administration (FDA). Soon afterward Dr. Harry Coover's glue did find use in Vietnam--reportedly in 1966, cyanoacrylates were tested on-site by a specially trained surgical team, with impressive results. In an interview with Dr. Coover by the Kingsport Times-News, Coover said that the compound demonstrated an excellent capacity to stop bleeding, and during the Vietnam War, he developed disposable cyanoacrylate sprays for use in the battlefield.

"If somebody had a chest wound or open wound that was bleeding, the biggest problem they had was stopping the bleeding so they could get the patient back to the hospital. And the consequence was--many of them bled to death. So the medics used the spray, stopped the bleeding, and were able to get the wounded back to the base hospital. And many, many lives were saved," Coover said.


from a well-researched Wikipedia article.

Subject: RE: BS: Bloody Superglue!!
From: Bee-dubya-ell
Date: 06 May 06 - 03:12 PM

Has anyone ever tried wrapping a bit of Teflon plumber's tape around the nozzle before screwing the cap on? I haven't (primarilly because I never use Super Glue - I'm an epoxy guy) but it might work. Then again, it might not. Seems like that if Super Glue wouldn't stick to Teflon the manufacturer would put a Teflon coating inside the cap. But maybe they don't do it so that the cap will stick and make you have to buy a new tube.

Subject: RE: BS: Bloody Superglue!!
From: Joe Offer
Date: 06 May 06 - 03:22 PM

I figured I'd find some interesting Superglue urban legends at Snopes.com. The list was short, but titillating:

• reacted chemically with the honey, bonding her skin, like Superglue, to the Fiberglas. Freeing her ripped the skin off her legs
• Wife takes revenge on philandering husband by supergluing his penis to his leg
• What a doctor said when presented with a lady stuck to a toilet seat

...seems like there ought to be more.
-Joe Offer-

Subject: RE: BS: Bloody Superglue!!
From: Uncle_DaveO
Date: 06 May 06 - 03:23 PM

The superglue makers are what I call "tretmasters".

What in the world is a tretmaster? First you need to know the word "tret".   (No fair looking it up if you don't already know it.)

Scroll down.
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"Tret" is the amount of product that sticks in the container when the bottle/tube/drum has been emptied. I have often thought that ketchup makers make most of their profit by selling tret.

But it looks like the superglue makers have really let their research laboratories loose on the technique of maximizing tret. Thus, "tretmasters".

Dave Oesterreich

Subject: RE: BS: Bloody Superglue!!
From: JohnInKansas
Date: 06 May 06 - 03:40 PM

Superglue was one of those "accidental discoveries" like teflon, according to reports. Someone examining materials found out that it would stick things, and the applications just sort of kept popping up. It does seem to have sort of "mystic" properties, and it didn't take long to discover that it would stick people parts together.

Significant use of the basic material goes back quite a bit before the use in surgery, but early forms in which it was supplied were so incredibly expensive that only a few industrial applications were found for quite a few years.

The basic cyanoacrylate material remains liquid as long as it's exposed to oxygen in the air, so for reasonable storage life it is absolutely mandatory that the container be permeable to oxygen. It is an unfortunate fact that most materials permeable to oxygen generally are also permeable to humidity in the air, and exposure to water causes the glue to react and harden. Temperatures outside normal human comfort ranges may also cause it to set up in the can.

Handling the container with "greasy fingers" can coat the container with an oil film that shuts of the permeation of air, and can cause the glue to set up fairly quickly in storage. SOP at a lab where I worked in the late 50s - early 60s was that the worker must rinse his/her hands with pure methanol before even picking up the bottle. (The lab bought it in 1 quart jars, at about $200+/jar, '60s dollars IIRC.)

Superglue is not really an ideal adhesive for wood, or for other porous materials, since usually the hardening with porous materials occurs due to moisture, and when hardened by moisture it "clabbers" rather than setting up. This doesn't mean that it's not useful for wood, but other "wood glues" give a stronger joint than can normally be obtained with superglue.

Absolute maximum bond strength is seldom really needed. (Even into the early 1950s, wooden airplane parts were usually assembled using raw chicken blood for the adhesive. It was considered a "miracle" when someone discovered freeze/vacuum drying of the blood glue - which got rid of a lot of the smell, even though it required mixing with water before using.)

Again at the lab, workers usually kept an open petri dish with a dollop of methanol handy, beside the "crud hole" which was a vacuum port with a screen on it where you could drop bits of dirt to be sucked away. Frequent moistening of the fingers with methanol, and drying them in the vacuum-hole airflow, completely eliminated "glued fingers." Methanol will mostly dissolve and "inactivate" uncured cyanoacrylate. Propanol, common rubbing alcohol, will deactivate it, but leaves a bit of "scum" that's easily rubbed off. In an emergency, rinsing with plain water will also set up the uncured glue so that you don't get "too much into your work."

On non-porous materials, which is where superglue works best, there are simple procedures that consistently produce good bonds. Ignoring them generally gives inferior, inconsistent, and unreliable bonding. I suspect this is why British Air Ministry (and RAF?) regulations prohibit using cyanoacrylate adhesives in aircraft - they never RTFM.

John

Subject: RE: BS: Bloody Superglue!!
From: Bill D
Date: 06 May 06 - 09:08 PM

The point about superglue and wood is that the wood dust can be mixed with the glue to fill certain voids..(or rather, the dust can be used to fill a void then saturated with the glue)the glue is clear and can often be nearly undetectable used this way...and it is FAST. My work is turning, and I can find a crack or void, fill it, set it, and be back to work in seconds......I know some turners who attach the stock to a waste block with superglue, then remove it with a sharp whack with a chisel when done. It is one of the most important tools I have, though I use regular "yellow glue" for other forms of wood joinery.

I have learned to deal with the clogging and getting it off of my fingers, and I 'almost' never have to throw away a bottle before I finish using it.

Subject: RE: BS: Bloody Superglue!!
From: Little Hawk
Date: 06 May 06 - 09:13 PM

911 recorded call:

"Heph! Ah've ftuck mah mipf togehveh wif Chwazy Goo! Heph! Heph!"

Subject: RE: BS: Bloody Superglue!!
From: The Fooles Troupe
Date: 06 May 06 - 09:27 PM

"Even into the early 1950s, wooden airplane parts were usually assembled using raw chicken blood for the adhesive."

Another useless fact that I'm not really sure that I needed (or even wanted) to know... :-)
Did they really use that method for building Mosquitos? :-)

BTW, I have noticed that the 'el cheapo shops' here in Oz who mostly import stuff from china these days, sell their superglug in packs of at least 3, or more, up to 10 at a time.

Subject: RE: BS: Bloody Superglue!!
From: Rapparee
Date: 06 May 06 - 10:07 PM

I rarely use cyanoacrilate glues since I've discovered Gorilla Glue. Works well on 'most anything I've used it on, including replacing a file unit onto a desk -- glued it up, blocked it up until it dried, and away we went! It works on porous materials like wood, and on nonporous surfaces like plastic and metal. I've even glued stone together with it.

AND you can actually use the bottle of stuff over and over!

Of course, no glue does it all. Epoxy is good for some things, wood glue to others. Even flour and water paste is okay for some things.

By the way, they use the fumes from superglue to retrieve fingerprints from surfaces from they never could retrieve them from before. HOWEVER! the fumes will give you the mother of all headaches.

Subject: RE: BS: Bloody Superglue!!
From: LadyJean
Date: 06 May 06 - 11:01 PM

I've tried Superglue. The only thing it seems to bond well is human skin. I use Goop. It stinks, but it holds well.
One of my sister's partners was a nurse who claimed to have seen a man whose wife caught him cheating. She slipped him something to make him sleep, and while he was sleeping she encased his willie in superglue and then stuck it to his thigh. The poor guy woke up in a lot of pain. When my sister's partner saw him, they had bored through the glue to catheterize him.

Subject: RE: BS: Bloody Superglue!!
From: JohnInKansas
Date: 07 May 06 - 01:20 AM

Bill D.

Most of the "superglues" sold under a variety of brand names are already filled with concoctions that would make a alchemist grin. The "pure" cyanoacrylate is excellent for some things, but pretty much a p.i.a. to work with for others. The fillers added by the packagers supposedly solve one or the other of the "problems," but each of the problems solved really only applies to one or two uses of the stuff, and you need different solutions to different sets of problems for other kinds of use. Making generic statements about superglue is like talking about milk. "I like milk" in a generic sense, but might have a different opinion if the particular milk happens to come from a goat, sheep, camel, donkey, or horse. It ain't quite all the same stuff.

Attempting to mix wood dust with pure cyano would probably cause it to set up almost instantly because of moisture absorbed/adsorbed in the wood dust, and it would likely set up "white" rather than clear. If that procedure works for you, it's quite likely that the particular brand of "superglue" that you've used is adapted to slow turn-on of the catalysis that sets up the cyanoacrylate, possibly to accomodate some other filler they've already added to their variant. Another brand is likely to give significantly different results, so if you've got one that works, stick with what (the brand) you've been using.

As a "low volume" woodworker, I can take the time to use a wood glue, yellow or white, when a gap filler is needed, and several of the good ones dry/cure to nearly water-clear. Whatever works for you.

Gorilla Glue, mentioned by Rapaire, is an excellent adhesive for some purposes, but it's not generally the best choice for many luthiery jobs, since it's virtually impossible to separate a joint where it's been used for later repairs/adjustments. An acquaintance swears by it for assembling hurdy gurdies, and it's appropriate there. Any other luthier is more likely to swear at it when an instrument that's been cobbled up with it comes in for repair.

And Foolestroupe - I can't speak specifically to what glue was used in the Mosquitoes, but in that era most wood structure in US built (wooden framed) aircraft was certifiably "chicken blood" glued. The same sorts of glues probably are still available, since they've been cleaned up and made "sanitary," but I haven't seen them on the retail market in many years.

One of the earlier replacements for the "blood-bond" was what some model builders - before snap-together plastic, when wood was still used and a bit of skill was needed - would recognize as the casein "white glue" that came as a white "powdered milk" that you mixed with water. Plain milk powder doesn't make much of a glue, but the casein extracted from milk is pretty strong for bonding solid porous materials, especially wood. It's not too great on flexible porous materials like leather, but then neither is epoxy.

The casein glues began to see some use in airplanes here, IIRC, around 1943 or so. (At least I think that's about the time my pappy brought a sample of "the new miracle glue" - casein - home from the A/C plant for his latest home experiment. It could have been as late as maybe 1946.) By about 1947(?) every Stromberg solid wood model airplane came with an envelope of the casein glue powder.

John

Subject: RE: BS: Bloody Superglue!!
From: Bert
Date: 07 May 06 - 01:31 AM

We used to assemble model aeroplanes with a stuff called balsa cement which dried quickly and was clear. I haven't seen any for years though.

Subject: RE: BS: Bloody Superglue!!
From: JohnInKansas
Date: 07 May 06 - 02:40 AM

Bert -

I believe that "balsa cement" was a name used by some model sellers to avoid infringing the ®Duco tradename. This is basically just polystyrene/polyethylene plastic dissolved in acetone.

It has largely disappeared from the market partly because it's been used by kids "glue sniffing." The actone solvent does produce a sort of "high" and in even slightly concentrated doses can cause substantial brain and nervous system damage. I've met a couple of lovely young zombies who experimented. Their remaining "personalities" approximated that of a clothing store mannequin (that requires constant attention with toilet and eating functions).

It's also not useful for the new plastic models, which are mostly made of polyvinyl or polypropylene, or even nylon, and the acetone solvent won't react sufficiently for that kind of glue to stick. The newer pvc model glues are somewhat less toxic, they work (sort of) on some plastics, they don't scare mother and the local cops, and they don't destroy kids.

You probably can still find the same basic product under the brand name "Duco" at some hardware stores, craft shops, and model shops. Properly used it's safe enough.

At the lumber yard, you can get much the same basic product as the newer PVC model glue as "pipe dope" for gluing together plastic plumbing. The "PVC" grade is generically similar to - not exactly like - the PVC model glue, dries clear, and is used for white plastic pipe. It's a fairly good glue for light wood/paper assembly, although it's not packaged for easy use in small quantities. I'd recommend buying the stuff in the tube or small bottle at the model shop, hardware, or art supply store for most uses.

The "ABS" grade dries black, and is used on black plastic (ABS) sewer pipe. For small jobs, I'd still recommend going to a model, hardware, or art supply store. The ABS grade pipe dope also makes a pretty good glue for auto body and trim parts that happen to be made from ABS plastics, although some filler or reinforcement may be needed. Since this kind of repair often requires fairly large amounts of glop, the ABS pipe dope is not too bad a way to get it if large quantities are needed.

John

Subject: RE: BS: Bloody Superglue!!
From: Rapparee
Date: 07 May 06 - 10:40 AM

I wouldn't use Gorilla Glue for fine woodwork! Certainly not for luthier work!

My brother used to make fishing nets (I have one) using hide glue. You can still get this, but you really have to search it out. When I was making tombstones the freeze/thaw cycle would sometime make letters "pop". "A", "B", "P" and other "closed" letters were particularily susceptible and the center of the letter would break free (the triangle in the "A", for instance). The families would come to The Boss, who had made the stone, and ask that it be fixed. We could and would do so, especially if the broken piece was available, as it usually was.

We'd clean it, epoxy it back in, and charge 'em $50 -- most of the cost was simply the cost of taking the truck, etc. out the cemetery. If the cemetery was close by (like the one across the street) and the stone was pretty recent we might not charge them at all.

I've noticed that there is a line of superglues being marketed for various types of plastics now.

Subject: RE: BS: Bloody Superglue!!
From: Liz the Squeak
Date: 07 May 06 - 10:59 AM

And yet... it won't stick the little plastic bit back on my bag so I can use the shoulder strap again......

LTS

Subject: RE: BS: Bloody Superglue!!
From: Geoff the Duck
Date: 07 May 06 - 03:20 PM

I can't ever get it to stick anything much. It fills cracks in wood fairly efficiently but not much else.
Only once managed to get it to stick any of my fingers together, and that took some effort.
At least Nettos occasionally sell a card of about 10 tubes for less than a pound. You can use them once and then throw away without being too worried about the wasted cash.
Quack!
GtD.

Subject: RE: BS: Bloody Superglue!!
From: Bill D
Date: 07 May 06 - 04:41 PM

John..my current brand of CA says 99.5%pure. It cures a little bit faster than the HotStuff I noted above, but is 1/3 cheaper. It is a 'professional' grade product, and has no additives that would cause any hazards to products that I sell to the public. 'Generic' statements are indeed dangerous, so I try to be clear that I refer to special items.

   Pictured also are the de-bonder and accelerator(for speeding up the medium & thick grades, if needed).....and a couple other useful glues, including TackyGlue, which will bond all sorts of fabric and which my wife uses to stick magnetic strips to wood, and which I use to repair leather.

Subject: RE: BS: Bloody Superglue!!
From: Little Hawk
Date: 07 May 06 - 04:46 PM

Cyano glue is very popular with modelers who make plastic kits. It is good for quick bonding joints, and great for filling gaps, as long as you sand it within a hour after it sets...before it gets harder than the plastic.

Subject: RE: BS: Bloody Superglue!!
From: Bill D
Date: 07 May 06 - 04:58 PM

just for added info, here is the website of the brand I pictured.....I had never actually looked at it before. They clarify very well the various points of use and storage for a high-grade of the stuff.

Subject: RE: BS: Bloody Superglue!!
From: The Fooles Troupe
Date: 07 May 06 - 06:16 PM

"When I was making tombstones"...

Bloody Hell Rapaire!

You throw in aline like that, and then leave us waiting for the other shoe to drop! There MUST be some good stories THERE you haven't told us yet!

Subject: RE: BS: Bloody Superglue!!
From: Rapparee
Date: 07 May 06 - 06:28 PM

Once upon a time I made tombstones. Gravestones. Headstones, sometimes footstones. The things that people put on the graves of their friends and relatives to let others know who's buried there. Stone things, mostly, but sometimes we'd order a bronze. The stone was usually granite, because marble is too soft to be a good gravestone. We'd make 'em and take 'em out to the cemeteries and set 'em. I didn't do it for very long -- maybe 18 months -- and my brother took the job when I left and held it for several years. Later, after Vietnam, he dug graves.

My wife loves to go into cemeteries with the two of us, because we'll start discussing the virtues and vices of various granites, play "what's that granite?" with each other (there are different types, you know, just like marble), and criticize the carving (which these days is usually sandblasting).

I once wrote three pages -- longhand -- of my deductions about the stone that marks her family's plot in Holyoke, Mass.

What sort of stories do you want? (I made about $1.50 or $2.00 per hour, back then.)

Subject: RE: BS: Bloody Superglue!!
From: SINSULL
Date: 07 May 06 - 08:38 PM

Isn't anyone interested in what exactly Giok is tryint to glue together? Did he rip his stitches open? Crack a cast?
Well????
Of course, his crankiness is the first sign of healing so...

Subject: RE: BS: Bloody Superglue!!
From: Rapparee
Date: 07 May 06 - 08:58 PM

Maybe a letter popped out of his gravestone. If so, I can tell him how to fix it. It's not hard.

Subject: RE: BS: Bloody Superglue!!
From: The Fooles Troupe
Date: 07 May 06 - 09:03 PM

I TOLD him not to play with it, but did he listen to me> No, he just kept playing with it till it fell off!

Or maybe ...

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Dear Friend,

My name is Daniel J. Karnes. In September 1988 my life was repressed and the bible thumpers were hounding me like you wouldn't believe. I was never laid and my mental disability checks had run out. The only escape I had from the pressure of failure was my Apple computer and my bible. I longed to turn my fixation into my vocation.

This January 1989 my family and I went on a ten day cruise to the tropics. I bought a Double-Wide Trailer with CASH in Feburary 1989. I am currently building a Self-Worship Temple on the West Coast of Florida, with a private S/M Dungeon with room for all of my closeted friends, and a beautiful view of the bay from my women's shoes closet and wardrobe. I will never be underendowed again. Today I am equipped! I have over 400,000 inches of penis (33,333 feet and 4 inches! ) to date and will become a million-incher within 4 or 5 months. Anyone can do the same. This penis enlargement making program works perfectly every time, 100% of the time. I have NEVER failed to earn 50,000 inches or more whenever I wanted. Best of all you never have to leave home except to go to your mailbox or reconstructive surgeon.

In October 1988, I received a letter in the mail telling me how I could earn 50,000 inches of penis or more whenever I wanted. I was naturally very skeptical and threw the letter on the desk next to my computer. It's funny though, when you are desparately underendowed, backed into a corner, your mind does crazy things. I spent a frustating day looking through the want ads for a wife who didn't need sexual fulfillment. The pickings were sparse at best. That night I tried to unwind by booting up my Apple computer and calling several gay bulletin boards. I read several of the message posts and then glanced at the letter next to the computer. All at once it came to me, I now had the key to my dreams.

I realized that with the power of the computer I could expand and enhance this penis making formula into the most unbelievable penis enlargement generator that has ever been created. I substituted the computer bulletion boards in place of the post office and electronically did by computer what others were doing 100% by mail. Now only a few letters are mailed manually. Most of the hard work is speedily downloaded to other bulletin boards throughout the world. If you believe that someday you deserve that lucky break that you have waited for all your life, simply follow the easy instructions below. Your dreams will come true.

                           Sincerely yours,

                           Daniel J. Karnes
                           -- Why doesn't Wenchell's
                           -- Serve Mogi Donuts?



About six months ago I received the enclosed post in letter form. I ignored it. I received about five more of the same letter withn the next two weeks. I ignored them also. Of course, I was tempted to follow through and dreamed of making thousands of inches, but I was convinced it was just another gimmick and could not possibly work. I was wrong! About three weeks later I saw this same letter posted on a local bulletion board in Montreal. I liked the idea of giving it a try with my computer. I didn't expect much because I figured, if other people were as skeptical as I, they wouldn't be too quick to part with their penis. But, I buy lottery tickets weekly in my province and have nothing to show for it but ticket stubs. This week I decided to look at this as my weekly lottery purchase. I addressed the envelopes and mailed out one piece of my penis in each as directed. Two weeks went by and I didn't recieve anything in the mail. The fourth week rolled around and I couldn't believe what happened! I can't say I received 50,000 inches, but it was definitely well over 35,000! For the first time in all my years, I was adequately endowed. It was great. Of course, it didn't take me long to feel inadequate again so I am using this excellent penis enlargement opportunity once again. Follow the instructions and get ready to enjoy.

Please send a copy of this letter along with the enclosed letter so together we can convince people who are skeptical that it really works!

                              Good Luck,
                              xxxxxxx
                              St Agathe Que.
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This document is an attempt at humor. Anyone who flames me will be
ignored as a humorless twit, whose indignation is without meaning.
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Subject: RE: BS: Bloody Superglue!!
From: dick greenhaus
Date: 07 May 06 - 09:29 PM

I've found that storing the stuff in a refrigerator works pretty well.

Subject: RE: BS: Bloody Superglue!!
From: Bill D
Date: 07 May 06 - 09:55 PM

Superglue, Dick? Not opened, I hope. The directions are pretty specific that you shoild NOT. Cooling leads to condension and moisture, which will cause setting. UNopened, is fine....I leave bottles out for months at a time....often open.

Subject: RE: BS: Bloody Superglue!!
From: Joe Offer
Date: 07 May 06 - 10:12 PM

An unsolicited testimonial from Joe Offer:

I'm embarrassed to admit this, but all my life I've been glue-challenged. No matter how hard I try to follow the instructions, and no matter how much glue I use, things just don't seem to stick for me. This thread has given me new hope and inspiration. Maybe I'll try again to fix my New Mexico kachina dolls, that have been armless for five years.
Thank you, all you glue experts, from the bottom of my heart.
-Joe-


P.S. I think I'll ignore the advice from Foolestroupe, above. It makes me really nervous...

Subject: RE: BS: Bloody Superglue!!
From: Liz the Squeak
Date: 08 May 06 - 05:37 AM

Besides... what would you do with it? Trying to er.... "facilitate" 50,000 inches would probably empty your entire body. OK, so you'd go happy, but think of the size of the coffin lid....

LTS

Subject: RE: BS: Bloody Superglue!!
From: John MacKenzie
Date: 08 May 06 - 06:01 AM

I was only gluing tissue paper on my nails to stop them splitting!
I like to pretend I'm a 'real' guitarist you see.
Giok.

Subject: RE: BS: Bloody Superglue!!
From: Rapparee
Date: 08 May 06 - 09:10 AM

It'd be just shy of 0.8 miles long. I'm not sure you could keep that in your pants, and just the thought of dragging it through the streets causes me to wince. Trucks and/or lorries would run over it. Children would hit it with sticks. And what would happen if you got on a train doesn't bear thinking about.

Subject: RE: BS: Bloody Superglue!!
From: Sandra in Sydney
Date: 08 May 06 - 09:26 AM

Giok, my classical guitarist friend goes to one of those fancy fingernail places which normally supplies long colourful nails to fashionable woman. He gets natural coloured extensions on the nails of his playing hand.

sandra

Subject: RE: BS: Bloody Superglue!!
From: Pied Piper
Date: 08 May 06 - 10:20 AM

When I used to play the Bardic (uses Steel Guitar strings) Harp regularly I experimented with artificial plastic nails secured with super glue. They worked OK but didn't last long and when removing them using the solvent the nail underneath was not in good condition so I stopped using them.

PP

Subject: RE: BS: Bloody Superglue!!
From: billybob
Date: 08 May 06 - 10:23 AM

Giok, tissue paper will not work, but you can buy nail kits in the chemists that you could try, or as Sandra says try a nail shop. We have a few guitarists who have their nails strengthened in our salon, but it is fibre glass resin we use, looks natural,no one will know.Just depends on how comfortable you feel walking into a beauty salon, take your guitar and serrenade the clients?

Subject: RE: BS: Bloody Superglue!!
From: Schantieman
Date: 09 May 06 - 03:31 AM

I could do with some stronger nails.   They keep bending when I hammer them into the wall.

S

Subject: RE: BS: Bloody Superglue!!
From: GUEST,DB
Date: 09 May 06 - 04:25 AM

Until recently I worked in the R&D department of the Cosmetics & Toiletries Industry. We routinely used cyanoacrylate glue ('super glue') for taking skin biopsies. You take a piece of clear plastic, smear it with super glue and stick it to an area of a volunteer's body (usually their forearm). After about 30 seconds you remove the piece of plastic from the volunteer's arm taking the top few layers of the stratum corneum (SC) with it. You can then treat the piece of detached SC with various substances (usually surfactants) and dye it with other substances, examine it under a microscope etc. The only slight problem with this approach is that you are dealing with the underside of the SC layers rather than the top - but it can still be a useful method. Surprisingly, this procedure is relatively painless and trauma-free (I've been a volunteer many times).

In my experience super glue isn't of much use for anything else ...

Subject: RE: BS: Bloody Superglue!!
From: JohnInKansas
Date: 09 May 06 - 06:13 AM

First response to Joe O:

and no matter how much glue I use ...

I think we had this conversation about soldering some months ago.

In a joint where the "inserted crud" is weaker than the parent materials between which it is inserted, the absolute minimum amount of "stickum" that fully wets the surfaces of the parent (legitimate or otherwise) surfaces produces the strongest joint.

Second response to Bill D:

I assume that I you recognized my assumption that you've tried out what you do and it works for you. If you're getting a good "filler" out of mixing wood dust with cyano, you're apparently using well cured wood (with low moisture) to make the dust. My comments were biased by the common use I've seen trying to glue metal or other non-porous surfaces, and by the fact that I can't afford good wood so I use construction grade which is "wet" and doesn't work well with superglues.

For "household" use, my kind of wood is more common. For skilled craftspersons appropriately cured woods would be the rule, and I'll make a note that you're in that latter *^@#&$! class.


One of the cardinal rules with cyanoacrylate adhesives is "If it works keep doing it like that. If it doesn't, use a different glue, or a different method."

General (and much too lengthy) reply:

The reason it's called "superglue" is because it will stick to things that other glues won't. Note that they didn't call it "miracle glue," because it won't stick to everything - which would be a miracle.

The primary method of "curing" cyano glues is by removing oxygen from the joint being glued. When the dissolved oxygen that prevents polymerization "in the jug" is removed from the glue, the material gets hard, and the best adhesive properties are obtained.

Two conditions are required for an "optimum polymerization." You must prevent new oxygen from getting to the glue in the joint by making the joint "tight fitting," and you must remove the existing oxygen that's dissolved/absorbed/adsorbed in the glue you put within the joint.

Some materials have sufficient surface energy to adsorb enough oxygen from the adhesive you apply, and the bond is created almost instantly, it the joint fits fairly closely.

Many materials have "inactive surfaces" or surface layers (often oxides) that prevent the material being bonded from "sucking out" the oxygen dissolved in the "glue." This prevents effective polymerizing of the superglue and produces, usually, a weak joint.

For these kinds of materials, primers are available that remove surface oils, and sometimes oxides from the parent material, and that also deposit a colloidal (usually silver) coating on the bonding surface. When the "glue" is applied, and the joint is placed together, the silver colloid adsorbs the oxygen from the glue and permits the intended full hardening. The "fit" of the joint must prevent additional entry of inhibiting oxygen.

Liz (07 May 06 - 10:59 AM) could possibly glue her plastic staps with superglue if she used an appropriate primer before adding the glue, but of course the primer doesn't come with the consumer packages. Most plastics simply won't adsorb enough of the O₂ to allow optimum hardening of the glue. If the glue "wets the surface" - i.e. when you spread it on it makes a film instead of clumping up in globs - superglue will (nearly always) make a bond if you have, or create, a sufficiently active surface to suck the oxygen out so it can harden.

The alternate curing method is to "clabber it up with something wet." This is basically what you do when you use it on wood, or with wood filler. The polymerization of the glue is less strong than when O₂ exclusion is used to obtain hardening, but is often sufficient for good effect.

Again: If it works once, do it again. If it doesnt' work, there are techniques and materials to help, and there are other glues.

John

Subject: RE: BS: Bloody Superglue!!
From: Bill D
Date: 09 May 06 - 11:01 AM

one clarification, John....(sticking to my guns? *grin*)...I use all sorts of woods in my work, and I work both with stuff that is both extremely dry and some that is so wet it throws water at me as I turn...(I kept some Pacific Madroné IN a bucket of water to keep it from checking until I was ready...and I needed cyano right at my elbow while I worked).

The wetter the wood, the faster the cyano cures...and some woods with oils are VERY fast (certain Rosewoods, for example), though I am unsure of the relation of wood/water/oil in the ultimate rate. If I need a fast cure, especially on the thicker formulations of cyano, I use the special accelerator.

On the website of the glue I currently use, they offer this explanation:

"In most cases, the moisture found on any surface will initiate the curing mechanism of the cyanoacrylate. This moisture, combined with the elements of the surface creates a possible activating pH level. The higher the acid level of the surface, which equates to a pH level below 4, the slower the cure. This is due to the fact that organic acids are used as stabilizers in the manufacturing of cyanoacrylates. These acidic stabilizers are a major facilitator in keeping the cyanoacrylate in its liquid form. Stick Fast™ cyanoacrylates are surface-insensitive formulated for bonding a wide range of similar and dissimilar materials.

Stick Fast™ ACTIVATOR will accelerate the cure faster than moisture alone and may be the only way to create a cure on some highly acidic surfaces. Using too much ACTIVATOR will cause an exothermic reaction that will cause foaming and reduce bond strength. Using AEROSOL ACTIVATOR allows for a lighter, more even application that reduces the foaming tendency."

   Obviously, your advice holds that " If it works once, do it again.", and that IS my method, as I would go crazy trying to plan my glue use with technical data on the many types of materials that I use.

The only reason I say all this is to make the information available ABOUT the professional grades of cyano, in case someone wants to try something beyond the little problem tubes of gunk they sell at the local hardware store. With a good brand of glue (about $6-8), it is possible, with care, to keep a bottle usable for a couple of years....and if one cares to invest in the accelerator and debonder (almost unlimited shelf-life), one can have excellent control over almost any situation that calls for superglue.