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12 Aug 08 - 09:52 AM (#2411470) Subject: Tin whistle problems From: GUEST,Johmnmc Can any experienced player tell me why the whistle can become seemingly unstable in a session environment? It won't hold its octave or even start in the right one. Is it tension, causing one to blow incorrectly, or trying to compete with the volume around you? Or is it more to do with atmospheric issues? |
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12 Aug 08 - 10:01 AM (#2411485) Subject: RE: Tin whistle problems From: Leadfingers Its not easy playing in a session if it gets noisy - FAR too easy to overblow . And nerves will possibly cause excess saliva too . |
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12 Aug 08 - 10:02 AM (#2411488) Subject: RE: Tin whistle problems From: Will Fly My guess is it's probably a combination of heat and damp. Is it a whistle with a wooden plug by the fipple? Sometimes the wood can swell and cause intonation problems. I use a compound, tunable high whistle in D (by Susato) - bit more expensive but hold their tone and pitch. |
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12 Aug 08 - 10:15 AM (#2411498) Subject: RE: Tin whistle problems From: Paul Burke If it's not filling up with condensation, and it's basically a working whistle, the problem is in your control- you're either blowing too hard, or losing the finger positions, or losing your auditory feedback. All too easily done in a session as Leadfingers says. |
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12 Aug 08 - 06:14 PM (#2411988) Subject: RE: Tin whistle problems From: Rowan From the opening phrase in your question I get the impression you regard yourself as not long on experience with whistle in sessions. Oddly enough, it does take practice to hear yourself properly in a good session where everyone's cracking on, even when you're not surrounded by other whistles crowding that particular aural space. The three posts above are all correct but you might better determine how much you are contributing (as well as the whistle itself) to the 'lack of control' if you positioned yourself, for only a few bars even, at the edge of the main sound. Sometimes even just playing with your head turned away, for the critical bars, can help. Cheers, Rowan |
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12 Aug 08 - 06:30 PM (#2412007) Subject: RE: Tin whistle problems From: The Fooles Troupe While there are a number of possible mechanical problems mentioned before here, the main problem with wind instruments is 'breath control'. Nerves don't help. And unless you can relax so that you can breathe correctly 'from the diaphragm' you won't stand much chance of regaining it in a hurry once you lose it. And indeed, as is also the case with 'recorders' (especially 'cheap' ones), overblowing is the death of pitch & tone control. |
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12 Aug 08 - 07:38 PM (#2412063) Subject: RE: Tin whistle problems From: GUEST,Johnmc These kind responses make me realise that, as I suspected, the cause is a combination of things, the main one being, in my case, blowing technique. At least I know it can be worked on. |
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12 Aug 08 - 07:54 PM (#2412076) Subject: RE: Tin whistle problems From: The Fooles Troupe Another dirty trick to instability is if you are in a breeze, btw. |
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13 Aug 08 - 12:55 AM (#2412237) Subject: RE: Tin whistle problems From: Bert Why is it that they can't make a whistle that works when you blow in it??? |
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13 Aug 08 - 12:59 AM (#2412240) Subject: RE: Tin whistle problems From: The Fooles Troupe Because you should blow in a hanky, not a whistle. |
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13 Aug 08 - 07:57 AM (#2412387) Subject: RE: Tin whistle problems From: Leadfingers Reference playing in a breeze - IF your whistle has a movable head , turn it 180 degrees so the fipple is sheltered - But DONT try that if you are Miked Up ! LOL |
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13 Aug 08 - 08:07 AM (#2412396) Subject: RE: Tin whistle problems From: Jack Campin Most of the world's whistles have the labium on the back - I'm just back from a couple of weeks playing Moldavian Csango music, and their whistles are a lot easier to play outdoors than a British-type one. They work fine with a mike, you play with the instrument side-on to it. Chinese whistles are made the same way. There's no beak on a Moldavian or Chinese whistle - the top end is cut off flat. This allows for a vibrato achieved by shaking the whistle longitudinally against your lips. I don't know quite why this works, but it does, and you can't do it with a Generation or the like. |
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13 Aug 08 - 08:57 AM (#2412429) Subject: RE: Tin whistle problems From: manitas_at_work Surely it's easier to use finger-flutter or breath control anyway? |
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13 Aug 08 - 11:36 AM (#2412532) Subject: RE: Tin whistle problems From: Waddon Pete Hello Johnmc, There is a lot of good advice on the thread. If it is the genuine Clarke's Whistle you are playing, I would suggest that it isn't at its best when trying to compete for space in a session. If you are happy playing it when you are not surrounded by other players, and you like the sound, then try playing it without the others. I'm sure they would be pleased to let you. (If they are not...you are in the wrong session!) Best wishes, Peter |
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13 Aug 08 - 11:53 AM (#2412555) Subject: RE: Tin whistle problems From: GUEST,Terry Babbage Hiya I've played whistles for many many years, and never experienced what you are describing. However, playing along with other musicians, especially if they are loud, I find I can sometimes get disoriented, and lose the sense of wind pressure I need to apply. This is not a fault of the whistle, but the result, I think, of the musical environment being a bit different to what I am used to. Does this make any sense? Terry |
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13 Aug 08 - 12:03 PM (#2412563) Subject: RE: Tin whistle problems From: GUEST,Johnmc Having taken on board these suggestions, I also wondered if one should avoid anything that can lead to excess saliva. I'm afraid I don't think I could rotate the whistle head and play successfully. It wasn't a Clarke whistle, just plastic headed. |
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04 Sep 08 - 08:58 AM (#2430755) Subject: RE: Tin whistle problems From: Mr Happy I also experienced my Sweettone D going out of tune. Later found the paint just below the mouthpiece seemed to have bubbled & on further examination found that the inside had rusted & there were little holes all over. Subsequently the whole end flaked away and fell off. Any one need a spare mouthpiece? |
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04 Sep 08 - 11:17 AM (#2430877) Subject: RE: Tin whistle problems From: Paul Burke You'll have to give up drinking that battery acid, I told you it would ruin your kidneys. |
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18 Sep 08 - 10:47 AM (#2444025) Subject: RE: Tin whistle problems From: GUEST,Terry Babbage One thing that players of plastic recorders do is put a diluted solution of washing up liquid down the mouthpiece. I have tried this and it works very well with recorders. I have never needed to do it with whistles, though, and don't know if it would work as well. You could try warming up the whistle prior to playing. Stick it under your armpit for a few minutes, also blow hard down it to raise temperature. Both help with condensation in my experience. |
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19 Sep 08 - 07:35 AM (#2444891) Subject: RE: Tin whistle problems From: Jack Campin You don't blow hard down a whistle to warm it up. Cover the labium and the top hand fingerholes and blow quite gently. |
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19 Sep 08 - 07:51 AM (#2444901) Subject: RE: Tin whistle problems From: GUEST,HughM The noisy environment makes your whistle sound quieter than it really is, so you think you are blowing more gently than you actually are. When you blow harder to compensate for the percieved lack of loudness, the whistle jumps into the upper octave. Try to avoid sitting next to other whistle players. Then you will be able to pick out your own sound more easily. Of course, try to keep away from anyone with a very loud instrument. |