Subject: BS: Postcard from Mykonos
From:
Roger the Skiffler
Date: 02 Oct 14 - 08:08 AM
When we learned that the ferry schedule change meant we had to leave Tinos a day early and spend a night on Mykonos we were mildly disappointed. However as the two beach bars in Porto had shut and packed up their sunbeds a day before we were due to leave, and as the meltemi wind had blown up, it worked out quite well. It also meant we didn't have toger up at sparrow's fart to catch a ferry or a plane. We caught a lunchtime ferry which was quite full. Masses of people getting on and off in Mykonos. We found the coach for the hotel transfer easily but it took the driver 20 minutes (the same time as the ferry journey!) to get through the gridlock at the port. He also picked up a party of jolly Argentinians who were also staying there. We didn't expect much of an overnight hotel but were pleasantly surprised, a few minutes walk downhill to the old harbour (but uphill coming back!), great views ( but up several flights of steps. A large terrace outside our room, very modern shower room. The shower looked like the control deck of the Starship Enterprise ( but we never managed to work out how to get hot water!).
Friendly staff and a nice continental breakfast the next morning to see us on our way at lunchtime. I lugged our cases up as far as reception and they agreed to keep one there till we left so I only had to lug one up to our room.
Mykonos was the "go to" destination for Europe's gay community for years but as the masses discovered it, they have wisely moved on. Because it now has an airport capable (with some fierce braking) of taking large jets and a new harbour deep enough for 15 deck cruise liners to dock alongside it has become a mass tourist destination. According to the press it has been the destination of choice this year of the "beautiful people": Brad Pitt, Kate Moss etc. Yes, it has pretty churches, yes it has windmills, yes it has the narrow winding streets, but really so have most of the Cycladic islands.
We had a nice late lunch at the waterside, overlooking the town beach at the old harbour (though frankly why anyone would use it with traffic and tourists on one side and detrirus from boats and waterside eateries on the other I don't Know). A long table of Japanese were singing (well, shouting) and the waiters were indulging them. I expected them to head off to invade Singapore later. We were surprised to find negative reviews on Tripadvisor we found the food good, service quick and friendly and, for Mykonos, not too expensive. The nearest we got to Delos was to see it in the distance and to see the trip boats returning. If we could have got through the harbour more quickly and if the hotel could have processed us before the group of Argentinians we might have been in time to get the last trip of the day but the boats all looked very crowded. If we fly via Mykonos on a future occasion we might stay an extra night to fit in a Delos trip. It was very busy at the "end of season" so we'd have to accept it would be even busier.
We explored the maze of streets, even worse than Santorini for jewelry , boutiques and tourist tat. The streets were clogged with large tourist groups from cruise liners. Lots of Chinese and Japanese carrying umbrellas, Americans with audio guides telling them what they were seeing. We duly visited "Little Venice" (more like little Tokyo, cameras flashing like mad) and the windmills. In the old town there was a traffic free ordinance. Being Greece, of course, that meant that taxis, delivery vans, motorbikes and any chancers still drove through. Friends of ours had left the island just before we arrived and warned us about the prices but gave us a recommendation for a tavernba in town where we had a very pleasant evening meal. It was twice what we would have paid in Tinos but we expected that.
And so to the airport next day after a leisurely start. Arrrived Gatwick 15 minutes early, queued for half an hour to get through passport control, our bags were already on the carousel when we got to the baggage hall, just missed a shuttle bus to the car park , ended up caught in the usual Friday night early leavers traffic. Journey from Mykonos to Gatwick 3hrs 20 minutes. Journey from Gatwick to home (an hour on a good day) three hours. Quick shop for an evening meal, check phone messages and post. Early night.
Finally, the annual swimsuit survey. I don't think you realise the sacrifices I make to do this every year. This year the colour palette was predominately in the red-orange-yellow spectrum, yes, some black always present, some black and white stripes and spots. Early in our holiday a group of Greek ladies of a certain age (I would suspect from Athens, not the islands) descended on thebeach. If I say they looked like Weightwatchers rejects would that be too cruel? I saw adverts for Tai Chi, but these looked more like sumos. That's OK but they wore bikinis of an inappropriate brevity- the fabric almost invisible in the folds of flesh (Nurse! My medication!). I had to lie down in a darkened room for a while. So I'm afraid, no definitive winner this year.
I've since tracked down stamna :it is a beef or lamb stew in a red wine stock with carrots, beans and potatoes. Just before serving, cheese is sprinkled on top and it goes under the grill to melt into the stew. I must look out for it. Next year? The mythical island of Dendros may emerge from the waves. We've pretty well exhausted the Dodecanese, Ionian and Sporades, but there are still plenty of Cyclades to visit.
RtS
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sj
