BS: Who's been to Venice?

Subject: BS: Who's been to Venice?
From: McGrath of Harlow
Date: 07 Oct 04 - 01:55 PM

Anne and I are hoping to be in Venice for five days from November 1st.

So one question is, anybody know of any live folk music we might be able to find while we are there? Preferably Italian folk music.

But the more pressing problem is, finding a place to stay. We've been going through the online booking sites, with the hotel reviews by users, and that is pretty fascunating, but also confusing.

Interesting patterns emerge, about the things people feel like commenting on. You get adjacent reviews, and one is saying how brilliant everything was, and how friendy the staff were, and the next one is saying what a dump it is, and how nasty everyone was - and what makes the difference seems to be the attitude they bring to it. (Among transatlantic visitors Canadians seem to enjoy themselves more, going by the reviews...Make what you will of that.)

Anyway it seems possible Mudcatters might on the whole be more likely to be on the same wavelength as us. So has anybody got anywhere they'd like to pass on a rave or a warning about?

Subject: RE: BS: Who's been to Venice?
From: Amos
Date: 07 Oct 04 - 01:58 PM

I have been there, but it was thirty years past, Kevin, so I can't offer any advise, but do enjoy yourselves!!


A

Subject: RE: BS: Who's been to Venice?
From: Linda Kelly
Date: 07 Oct 04 - 03:24 PM

have been a couple of times -lots of restaurants wth live music but not a folk club that I can recall

Subject: RE: BS: Who's been to Venice?
From: mg
Date: 07 Oct 04 - 03:37 PM

I think the music will come to you. I ended up in Venice on early Christmas morning, quite by accident, once. Was planning to be somewhere else but train schedules didn't work. So there I was..train station at about 4 a.m. All the porters etc. were singing. Then I had the miracle of the bathroom but that is another story. Then I just wandered around the station, and then I went outside..I had absolutely no idea it was right on the main canal....and as it got a little later people started to be out and about and I swear they were all singing...crossing the bridges, going to the various churches I guess. It was quite beautiful. Had some food in the train station, took the water bus here and there and had a great day. mg

Subject: RE: BS: Who's been to Venice?
From: jimmyt
Date: 07 Oct 04 - 03:42 PM

Mc Grath,

I will be in Venice 2 days before you get there! We are finishing up a week in SLovenia and Croatia with 2 days inVenice before we return to the states on Oct 30. It will be my 3rd trip there in the last 4 years and I absolutely love Venice. WOuld love to bore you with info , and if you have the interest, PM me. I do not know of music there although I always go to a concert one evening, normally a Vivaldi one. There are several concerts every night in Venice. Always a delightful show.

Accomodations: Laconda Ovidis, on right side of Grand canal once passing the Railto Bridge coming from Train Station. You can take the ACTV (water Bus) to get there but you have to walk back down the canal , over the bridge and up to Laconda Ovidis as it is on the opposite side from water bus stop. Location is fantastic, but getting a little pricy for what you get. Still, if location is important, it is hard to beat the Railto area.

My favorite hotel is Hotel Laconda al Leon about 2 minutes walk from St Marks Square. A small hotel, with great breakfast, very kind owners, fabulous location, and I could hardly praise a place more highly for value to price. If you book there, tell them I sent you and you would like the corner room on first floor (second for us Americans) I could just sit for hours people watching out the window at he little campo there. PM me as I said if you want any more info I have a couple resturants that I would recommend as well as a tour guide there that I will use again this trip.   Wow I am excited just talking about Venice! thanks for the lift to an otherwise boring work day jimmyt

Subject: RE: BS: Who's been to Venice?
From: Peace
Date: 07 Oct 04 - 03:48 PM

It's not a good time to go. The streets are FLOODED!

Subject: RE: BS: Who's been to Venice?
From: jimmyt
Date: 07 Oct 04 - 03:51 PM

Brucie, those are canals! Seriously, the high water (acqua alta) season is mostly March but I have been there then and not experienced any high water they have neat platforms to walk on if the water does come up though.

Subject: RE: BS: Who's been to Venice?
From: Peace
Date: 07 Oct 04 - 03:54 PM

They're called rafts.

Subject: RE: BS: Who's been to Venice?
From: GUEST,skipy
Date: 07 Oct 04 - 05:24 PM

was there less than a month ago, love the rickety old water buses, beware a visit to the palace (must do)can easily take 3 to 4 hours.
Wierd thing is (for me)when I first saw Venice it looked just like I expected it to look - how stupid is that then.

Enjoy Regards Skipy

Subject: RE: BS: Who's been to Venice?
From: Mary in Kentucky
Date: 07 Oct 04 - 05:28 PM

If Anne is blond it helps to be able to say, "Vada via!" (go away, the greatest insult to men who approach -- I had that problem when I was younger!)

Subject: RE: BS: Who's been to Venice?
From: McGrath of Harlow
Date: 07 Oct 04 - 05:29 PM

Thanks jimmyt - that Hotel Locanda al Leon sounds OK, and I'm checking it out.

A classic example here, though, of the way reviews sometimes seem to reflect something other than the actual quality of what's being reviewed.

Most of the people who commented clearly loved the place - here's one, a New Zealander:
This lovely hotel was exactly as described on the internet. Great location,around the corner from San Marco, but the sound proof rooms offer a welcome respite. Rooms were clean, minibar prices the cheapest we encountered in Europe and the breakfast excellent. The hosts were friendly and welcoming. Definitely recommend this little gem.

But here's what another (from Miami)had to say:
The people writing these reviews must be on acid. Arrived in Venice in a rain storm was walked over to Cavenella and almost fainted - a total dive, dirty and depressing. Asked for a refund because property was not like what is shown at various sites. Got back to the states and this sleeze ball put in 3 extra credit card numbers. The owner must have many family members writing reviews because this place is best rated as a dive.

I think I'd trust New Zealand (and jimmyt) over Miami this time round...

Subject: RE: BS: Who's been to Venice?
From: jimmyt
Date: 07 Oct 04 - 05:41 PM

Not everyone in America is as charming as I am. grin

Subject: RE: BS: Who's been to Venice?
From: GUEST,John O'Lennaine
Date: 07 Oct 04 - 06:10 PM

I stayed in Venice on my way to London in 1987.
I loved the place.
There is plenty of street music on the promenade along the beach, I guess you would have to call it folk music.
I stayed at the Network Hostel on corner of Lincoln Boulevarde & Venice Boulevarde.
It probably isn't there now.

John

Subject: RE: BS: Who's been to Venice?
From: ThreeSheds
Date: 07 Oct 04 - 06:28 PM

I'm off in march I hadnt appreciated it was high water time then Still I wasnt expecting to go surfing

Subject: RE: BS: Who's been to Venice?
From: McGrath of Harlow
Date: 07 Oct 04 - 07:06 PM

Here are some picture of Venice when it's even more flooded than usual, ThreeSheds - it still looks pretty good. Better take your wellies, though...

Subject: RE: BS: Who's been to Venice?
From: annamill
Date: 07 Oct 04 - 07:09 PM

We stayed at the Hotel Croce De Malta and we had a glorious time. Small but wonderful. The rooms cannot be called spacious, but we were comfortable. If you want to hear some music just go outside about 6am. Everyone sings! The fruit and veggie delivery men, the Maytag repairman from his boat, the gondoliers, etc. It was wonderful.

Have fun. (very expensive)

Annamill

Subject: RE: BS: Who's been to Venice?
From: dianavan
Date: 07 Oct 04 - 09:39 PM

I've been to Venice but there are alot of other places in Italy I would rather visit. Why go to Venice when there is Manarola or Florence?

d

Subject: RE: BS: Who's been to Venice?
From: ThreeSheds
Date: 08 Oct 04 - 03:16 AM

McGrath thanks for that piccy link forewarned is forewellied Ta

Subject: RE: BS: Who's been to Venice?
From: Gervase
Date: 08 Oct 04 - 04:05 AM

The Pensione Academica, near the Academica, naturally, is one place I've stayed that isn't prohibitively expensive and it's handy for the gallery. Though, to be honest, the whole of Venice is handy for every bit of it. Keep an eye on the yellow enamel signs on the main walkways - they'll direct you to San Marco, the Rialto or the Academia depending where you are - it's very easy to find yourself in a "Don't Look Now" situation and getting hopelessly lost.
There's a fair bit of music around, but largely stsumbled across in the street rather than performed - though the Frari hosts some impressive classical recitals, as does Vivaldi's old church. Take plenty of warm clothes, as it can be darned chilly, especially if you're sitting in a vast church for an evening performance!
Many of the places on the main tourist route are horribly expensive, but late at night have yourself a hot chocolate and grappa on the terrace at Florian's and listen to the jazz across San Marco; decadent bliss. Venice is one of those places that evinces strong responses - most people either love or loathe the city.

Subject: RE: BS: Who's been to Venice?
From: GUEST,Hugh Jampton
Date: 08 Oct 04 - 05:01 AM

McGrath,
       If there is one place on this earth to go before infirmity sets in it is Venice. It can be costly although some of the hotels in the region of the bus terminus are reasonable for 2004. There is so much history, culture and blatant, tatty commercialism to be seen in the popular sites but the fascination is in walking through the urban neighbourhoods with their shops, bars and restaurants.Also, in truth, one can walk everywhere and because the place is relatively small you can never get lost. The only thing I have never seen is traditional Italian songs and music but you can take coffee in St Marco to the strains of a string quartet playing all the evergreens.

Subject: RE: BS: Who's been to Venice?
From: polaitaly
Date: 08 Oct 04 - 07:06 AM

McGrath, Venice in November is cold and very damp and misty. Take warm clothes with you! I am sorry but I can't give you any advice for hotels, because those in the town center are too expensive and when I was in Venice I stayed in Mestre, a town (full of factories and ugly) on the mainland. Regarding music, to find traditional venetian music it's difficult; maybe I'm too cynical, but I'm afraid that the most of people that have been heard singing by others Mudcatters did so for "turistic reason"....But in the last ten years there have been another revival of traditional music in the whole of Italy, and probably if you can move a bit from Venice to the mainland you can find something. I'll try to do a search on Internet for some festival or similar in that period.
If you see announcement for "celtic music " in Venice, you better take care not to stumble on some show of the Lega , a political party, strongly racist and to the extreme right, who claim the "celtic roots" of North Italy (!!!)
And If you would stay a little longer, you could take a south bound train and stay some day in Florence; I have another room and I would be very glad to give hospitality to the both of you.
paola

Subject: RE: BS: Who's been to Venice?
From: Mrrzy
Date: 08 Oct 04 - 08:43 AM

Since this IS the Mudcat...

A young maid who was no good at tennis
At swimming was really a menace
She took pains to explain
It depends how you train -
I was a streetwalker... in Venice!

Yes, go to Florence. What I remember most about going to Venice was going to Florence and seeing the Michealangelos. Also, always let your gondolier sing.

Subject: RE: BS: Who's been to Venice?
From: grumpy al
Date: 08 Oct 04 - 02:43 PM

is an unsighted person in venice a venetian blind?

Subject: RE: BS: Who's been to Venice?
From: Susan A-R
Date: 08 Oct 04 - 10:12 PM

We were there last spring. Found the Rick Steves guide pretty useful, and had a lot of fun just walking and getting lost (a lot!) We saw some interesting, skillful street performers, but although we checked the live art scene out pretty carefully, didn't see much by way of concerts, outside of Vivaldi, lots of Vivaldi.

If I get a chance, I'll post restaurants we liked.   Our hotel was great, but it did back onto the big fish/produce market, so it was pretty noisy pretty early. If this isn't a big issue, I'll dig for it. The price was right.

The phrase Sempre Diretto used to make us crack up, means just go straight. There is no such thing.

Have a blast!!

Subject: RE: BS: Who's been to Venice?
From: GUEST,milk monitor
Date: 16 Oct 04 - 02:55 PM

BBC 2 tonight at 9.10pm ...a documentary on the 'birth of Venice'.

Subject: RE: BS: Who's been to Venice?
From: My guru always said
Date: 16 Oct 04 - 04:18 PM

Watching documentary now!!!

Off to Venince in the morning for 3 nights *big grin*,
booked yesterday on 'Lastminute', hope it all works out or I'll be a GrumpyCat.....

Subject: RE: BS: Who's been to Venice?
From: My guru always said
Date: 16 Oct 04 - 04:18 PM

errrr, Venice I meant!!!

Subject: RE: BS: Who's been to Venice?
From: McGrath of Harlow
Date: 16 Oct 04 - 05:49 PM

Wrap up warm and waterproof.

We've got a couple of weeks before we go, and after watching the TV tonight about it, looking forward more than ever. They say Venice looks best in the mist anyway.

Subject: RE: BS: Who's been to Venice?
From: GUEST,marks
Date: 17 Oct 04 - 04:10 PM

This time of year your should not be too overrun with tourists.

Be on the lookout for Nigerian street vendors selling counterfiet Louis Vuitton bags and all kinds of fakes. They can get real pushy and nasty if you say no nicely - you may need to get forceful. The phrase "non ne voglio" (I do not want it) seems to work if they approach you in English and you reply in Italian.

Also - If you get the chance try to get to Murano. They do fantastic glasswork there. If you can get a day tour which includes lunch, you will probably get very nice seafood.

Enjoy the trip and please put up a post when you get back telling us how it was!

Mark

Subject: RE: BS: Who's been to Venice?
From: Rapparee
Date: 17 Oct 04 - 07:06 PM

Ah, Venice. My high school prom. That magic night when the gym was decorated so that it looked just like the Piazza San Marco. The gondoliers skimming their gondolas past the bleachers, the "Bridge of Sighs" by the basketball nets -- how can I ever forget? And when the evening was over and my date made the evening so very "special" in a very personal and intimate and physical way, the way she shook my hank goodnight...ah, Venice. The bill the Senior Class received the next Monday to replace the gym floor where the water had ruined it....

Subject: RE: BS: Who's been to Venice?
From: McGrath of Harlow
Date: 17 Oct 04 - 08:38 PM

Worth getting a Venice Card, which provides a season ticket on the boats, including out to Murano and beyond, and admission to the main galleries.

Subject: RE: BS: Who's been to Venice?
From: Tattie Bogle
Date: 18 Oct 04 - 07:58 PM

We were there in summer 2003; walked the feet off the first day, so spent most of the 2nd day in water taxis (vaporettos) chugging around everywhere, Murano, Burano, the Lido. 10 euros bought you a ticket to cover all the buses and water-buses (per day)
Verona's not too far away: we went for the opera in the Roman amphitheatre: as my husband professes not to like opera,we went for "Aida" which was totally spectacular, and almost converted him (apart form long aria/dialogues in Act 3) But not sure if the season for that is finished now.
Agree - go for any concerts in churches, esp Vivaldi or Gabrieli - and if Banditaliana (Ricardo Tesi) just happens to be in town you've got it made! If you can afford a gondola, they will sing for you - or you could sing for them!

Subject: RE: BS: Who's been to Venice?
From: Gervase
Date: 19 Oct 04 - 07:05 AM

I now have this delightful mental image of Kevin with his guitar serenading a gondolier as they bob along the Grand Canal! That would be a picture worthy of the cover of a Mudcat calendar.

Subject: RE: BS: Who's been to Venice?
From: GUEST,McGrath of Harlow in Venice
Date: 04 Nov 04 - 02:58 PM

Here we are in an Internet Cafe in Castello Sestiere. Except there is no coffee. Great time here, island hopping around the lagoon, seeing the odd museum and getting lost. This has all put this stuff with Bush in perspective. They had some really unpleasant Doges here in their time, and the place has not quite sunk so far.

Burano is the part of Venice that was best, really. All the houses painted different colours, and it was like a summery day.

Subject: RE: BS: Who's been to Venice?
From: skipy
Date: 04 Nov 04 - 07:28 PM

Give my love to Venice, we will be back -enjoy

Regards to you both

Skipy

Subject: RE: BS: Who's been to Venice?
From: jimmyt
Date: 04 Nov 04 - 07:43 PM

Kevin, are you having high water to deal with? we did a week ago Hope all is well there! jimmyt

Subject: RE: BS: Who's been to Venice?
From: skipy
Date: 04 Nov 04 - 07:57 PM

Dalmatia in the year 1000! he ivaded!
and of course Napoleon Bonaparte!
Skipy

Subject: RE: BS: Who's been to Venice?
From: skipy
Date: 04 Nov 04 - 07:58 PM

here is the missing n, please insert as required!

Subject: RE: BS: Who's been to Venice?
From: ThreeSheds
Date: 05 Nov 04 - 03:55 AM

Any reccomendations for hotels anyone?

Subject: RE: BS: Who's been to Venice?
From: GUEST,Seaking
Date: 05 Nov 04 - 03:51 PM

I stayed in the Hotel Ala (maybe it was Alla) nearly twenty years ago on my honeymoon, it was (and probably still is) a friendly, comfortable, clean 3*** type hotel, overlooking a small square where the first sound we heard every morning was a harpist playing under our window in the square below. Otherwise quiet as I remember. It was about 3 minute walk from St Mark Square and even less to the nearest waterbus station. I'd have recommended it then but obviously don't know what it's like now.

If there's a 'Rough Guide to Venice' produced have a read of that for hotels, they're usually pretty good at telling it as it is.

Subject: RE: BS: Who's been to Venice?
From: jimmyt
Date: 05 Nov 04 - 05:00 PM

I just returned last week and stayed at the Hotel Laconda Al Leon, 2 min from St Marks on a neat little campo called Campon GIaccomo e Paoli. My second time there very nice 3 star $150 Ask for a view room on the square jimmyt

Subject: RE: BS: Who's been to Venice?
From: GUEST,Seaking
Date: 05 Nov 04 - 05:37 PM

Having posted earlier I looked up the Hotel Ala and had a trip down Memory Lane. Apparently it's been recently renovated and is even closer to St Marks than I remember.

I can't do the blue clicky thing but it's here: http://www.veniceby.com/alahotel/

Subject: RE: BS: Who's been to Venice?
From: McGrath of Harlow
Date: 07 Nov 04 - 11:40 AM

High water? One day, in St Marks Square, so we we put off St Marks for a day, and did something else. Mind, all you need is a couple of bin-bags and a bit of string...

For places to stay I recommend you use this site - www.venere.com - for Venice and for cities all over Europe. The beauty of it is that, as well as alllowing you to check whether places are available for particular days, and what they cost, and book them online, you can check up on what previous guests have thought of them, including highly critical comments sometimes.

That's how we found ours - the ones suggested by Mudcatters all turned out to be uanvailable for the days we needed - The Campiano San Giustina turned out to be great, and we'd happily recommend it to anyone (and tell Franco and Silena, who own it, that we said so).

But it's horses for courses - for example we came across one place where someone had written about somewhere else, saying it was wonderful, so long as you didn't mind bedbugs. So check out the comments, and decide if it sounds as if the people writing them have the same priorities as you do. The comments make fascinating reading anyway.

And the other tip for anyone going to Venice is to book a Venice Card. You can pay online, and pick them up when you arrive (otherwise you'd have to wait 48 hours of you tried to buy them on the spot - the Italians seem very bureaucratic that way). These give you the freedom of the vaporettos, all over Venice and out to the islands, and free admission to the main museums. (And to the loos as well, which can be very handy; and a;so it includes various other concessions and discounts.

Subject: RE: BS: Who's been to Venice?
From: bet
Date: 07 Nov 04 - 12:33 PM

Sorry I didn't see this earlier. I've been googfing off. I know it's to late now but my kids lived 45 minutes from there for 5 years. I visited them as much as I could and when we took the notion we drove down. The   parking grage in a trip in it's self. Americans park on the top level. One day it was full so they put us on another level. We got a good lesson on how to park using LITTLE space. They learned much about the Venice and I know they would have shared. Hope you trip was great. I love Venice! bet

Subject: RE: BS: Who's been to Venice?
From: Tattie Bogle
Date: 10 Nov 04 - 07:24 PM

Yeah, Burano's just like Ballamory - sorry, Tobermory - with the multi-coloured houses. Did they still have major root canal works going on when you were there?
TB

Subject: RE: BS: Who's been to Venice?
From: Irish sergeant
Date: 11 Nov 04 - 06:57 PM

Kevin:
I was there but sorry to say my friend that it was 25 years ago so I can't tell you if any of the venues I knew are still there. Wish i could be of more help. Kindest regards, Neil

Subject: RE: BS: Who's been to Venice?
From: McGrath of Harlow
Date: 11 Nov 04 - 08:06 PM

I did manage to come across some interesting music, aside from the Vivaldi concert on the last night.

There was this oldish bloke busking with a guitar in a square - after singing a few songs in a beret, he changed his hat to a more florid affair, and sang in a completely different style. Neat idea.

But the mst intetresting was a Russian from Siberia busking with a set of musical glasses. Extraordinarily skilful, but tasteful as well, made some loively music. Ran into him on the first night walking around, and then wished we'd paid him more attention, but he wasn't there any more. And then we ran into him again towards the end of our stay, and this time we bought his CD, and it's amazing. Vladimir Sklyarov is the name.

This was the first time I'd run across them, but I gather the Musical Glasses have been around quite some time - Mozart worked with the instrument on occasion. And so did Benjamin Franklin. Here is a page about it.

Subject: RE: BS: Who's been to Venice?
From: GUEST,Bill the Collie
Date: 21 Feb 05 - 07:59 PM

Hotel la Luna Baglioni, just behind San Marco and a few yards from Harry's Bar.

Subject: RE: BS: Who's been to Venice?
From: open mike
Date: 21 Feb 05 - 08:02 PM

venice italy or california?
ihear the governator used to lift wieghts
in one of them

Subject: RE: BS: Who's been to Venice?
From: McGrath of Harlow
Date: 22 Feb 05 - 07:37 AM

Try and get a boat out to Burano while you're there, Bill.

Subject: RE: BS: Who's been to Venice?
From: GUEST,Bill the Collie
Date: 24 Feb 05 - 10:39 AM

McG

Good pics - it's all so damn photogenic intit?
Murano great also.
Bought some fantastic glass sculptures.