A New Orleans Moment - early January

Subject: RE: A New Orleans Moment - early January
From: PoppaGator
Date: 13 Dec 07 - 03:14 PM

My bad ~ I knew, of course, that PMs cannot be sent to non-members. I was wrong to assume that a non-member could send a PM to me.

I'm not going to post my phone or email out here in this permanent public record. Darya, if you want to reach me, you can join, send me a PM, and never participate in Mudcat again if you don't want to. However, be warned: membership is addictive.

I'm interested in what you're up to during your upcoming brief visit, as well as how you occupied yourself during two earlier visits.

Just thought of one more way we could meet. From noon to 3:30 or so this Sunday and next, I'll be in the Superdome ~ section 629, row 19, seats 12-13. ;^)

Subject: RE: A New Orleans Moment - early January
From: Ernest
Date: 13 Dec 07 - 01:52 PM

...but before you can send a PM you have to join up, Darya (we have our little ways here to lure people into the mud - but I can assure you that it is worth it: you`ll get the REAL insider information ;0)

Best
Ernest

Subject: RE: A New Orleans Moment - early January
From: PoppaGator
Date: 13 Dec 07 - 10:40 AM

Darya, click the "PM" next to my name if you want to get in touch with me. I'm here in New Orleans all the time.

Subject: RE: A New Orleans Moment - early January
From: GUEST,GUEST, Darya
Date: 13 Dec 07 - 09:36 AM

Mary Katherine, I just read your post regarding your upcoming trip. I am returning to nola this weekend for the third time and I have in the past utilized your guide as my nola travel bible. Too bad I will be leaving on the 17th. It would have been nice to meet you. If you have any new recommendations, I would love to receive them

Subject: RE: A New Orleans Moment - early January
From: PoppaGator
Date: 21 Nov 07 - 03:22 PM

I missed the part about the 12-year-old. Not only does that rule out most barroom/nightclubs, it might impose an earlier curfew than would otherwise be in effect, considering your very early Saturday wake-up call.

I'm not sure; it's a long time since I had a 12-year-old. I know that teenagers can generally get by with less sleep than adults, but I'm not sure of the age at which they begin developing nightowl tendencies.

There will be precious little daylight during your brief visit. Unless I can pick you up at the depot, and then make a half-hour-or-so detour before dropping you at the hotel, we won't have much opportunity for the "disaster tour." Well, I suppose there's a little time available Saturday morning between sunrise and your train's departure, but I certainly don't plan on being awake that early...

Live Cajun music during dinner at Mulate's is certainly an attractive option. After dinner, Friday-night options might well be limited by the youngest member of the group, but any venue that serves food as well as drink may legally admit minors. The famous Mid-City Lanes Rock 'n' Bowl (live music at a bowling alley) might be a best-bet, depending upon who's on the bill.

Subject: RE: A New Orleans Moment - early January
From: Desert Dancer
Date: 21 Nov 07 - 02:47 PM

PoppaGator, that sounds great. Bourbon street is a circus, and if that's all one can get, it's certainly an experience. But, it would be great to get a better sense of the real New Orleans outside of the tourist zone, and the disaster is definitely now a part of that, too.

We are also a little challenged thinking about a tour with 12-year-old in tow -- we won't be strolling in and out of bars... (not that astro and I are particularly into that, but it makes it more challenging to discriminate what might be worthwhile and what might not).

~ B in T

Subject: RE: A New Orleans Moment - early January
From: PoppaGator
Date: 21 Nov 07 - 01:52 PM

The Inter-Continental is a very nice hotel, and I'm glad you got a single night, and at such a decent rate. Mulate's is a good idea, and it's in borderline walking distance.

I'm sure we'll come up with some arragement whereby I can pick you up for an excursion outside the tourist-trap zone ~ maybe for a state-of-the-art po-boy at a reasonable "neighborhood" price at, say, the Parkway Bakery or Domilise's or Parasol's or R&O's in Bucktown, etc., and/or a late-evening excursion to one of the uptown or midcity night spots like Tip's, the Maple Leaf, Rock 'n' Bowl...

Not to denigrate the French Quarter, where there are plenty of absolutely worthwhile sights and attractions as well as others of more dubious quality. But other parts of town have a lot to offer, too, so much so that plenty of locals enjoy as much sublime food and music as anywone would want without ever having to search for parking places in the Quarter.

Time is limited, I know, but we might be able to squeeze in a condensed "disaster tour," too ~ if nothing else, a quick trip across my neighborhood. You wouldn't want to visit New Orleans in the first decade of the 21st century without at least a brief peek at the incredibly widespread destruction, would you? What kind of stories will you have to bring back to the folks at home?

Subject: RE: A New Orleans Moment - early January
From: Desert Dancer
Date: 21 Nov 07 - 01:26 PM

And PoppaGator, thanks for the housing crunch alert and contact information; it'll be a one-night stand, but it sure would be nice to touch base with another 'Catter face to face.

~ Becky in Tucson

Subject: RE: A New Orleans Moment - early January
From: Desert Dancer
Date: 21 Nov 07 - 12:18 AM

Well, checked Orbitz & Hotwire and got a fancy room for a not awful price through Hotwire: a night at the InterContinental Hotel for about $90, including tax. (When I went to the InterContinental web site, the cheapest room was $199, before tax.) I'd never used Hotwire before, but astro's son recommended it just the other day, so gave it a look. Orbitz had comparable prices for 3-star, rather than 4-star hotels. (Not that we need 4 stars, but if the price is the same, why not!)

The location (which they don't reveal until you book!) looks good: St. Charles Ave. just north of Poydras, so not in the French Quarter itself, but pretty darn close.

After arriving at 4 pm, I suspect we'll take a taxi to the hotel, get clean (after sitting on the train for two days!), then wander the French Quarter for dinner and the evening. Then crash, have a very early room service breakfast, and head to the train station for our 7:10 am train.

We'll have to get beignets at Cafe du Monde sometime; probably diner-style seafood for supper.

Researching as I write, it looks as though Mulate's, in the warehouse district, has cajun music all the time... not French Quarter proper, but relatively close, too... I'd like to pay less than $14+ for an oyster po-boy, though -- is that possible in the tourist zone of town??

~ B in T

Subject: RE: A New Orleans Moment - early January
From: astro
Date: 20 Nov 07 - 08:41 PM

Sounds good to me Michaelr....

Will look for this along with everything that is possible in a short time!!!

Astro

Subject: RE: A New Orleans Moment - early January
From: michaelr
Date: 20 Nov 07 - 06:58 PM

Be sure to have an Oyster Loaf. Mmmm!

Cheers,
Michael (who wishes to taste one again soon)

Subject: RE: A New Orleans Moment - early January
From: PoppaGator
Date: 20 Nov 07 - 04:46 PM

Sugar Bowl / New Years weekend is almost like Mardi Gras for the local tourism industry. I'm afraid that this MIGHT mean that hotels are booking only multiple-night stays (that is, through Monday night, which will be New Years Eve).

Look into this RIGHT AWAY and get back to me (I'll PM you my email). No promises, but if all else fails, I might be able to scare up alternate accommodations.

Subject: RE: A New Orleans Moment - early January
From: GUEST,Mary Katherine
Date: 20 Nov 07 - 04:41 PM

If you're really arriving on Friday December 28, get a hotel room NOW. That's only a few days before New Years Eve (big party) and the bowl game on New Year's Day (another big party). Quarter hotels will fill up fast. Hotels.com is your friend.
However, the good news is that there is a LOT more live music on Friday nights. Check to see who's playing at Tips uptown, and also at Rock 'N' Bowl on Carrollton. These will be cab rides away from the Quarter, but worth it if it's someone you really want to hear. Also, check House of Blues, Snug Harbor, and see what's up at Ray's Boom Boom Room on Frenchmen. Kermit might be playing if you're lucky.
Poppagator, last I heard George French had *also* fallen out with Donna and Charlie, so I don't know what the Monday night sitch is there. Maybe they made up; hope so!

Subject: RE: A New Orleans Moment - early January
From: astro
Date: 20 Nov 07 - 04:32 PM

Oops...that was me as guest...can't even login right today....

Astro

Subject: RE: A New Orleans Moment - early January
From: GUEST
Date: 20 Nov 07 - 04:26 PM

DD, not to tip off my ignorance of our trip's agenda (though it does) are you certain that we have changed our arrival time to this...oh well, it tells me that I'm totally out of touch, even in my own life...it is bliss to be ignorant I guess....I think I must be ready for this vacation....

DD's Astro who is astrologically ignorant...and in LA, the city of fallen angels....

Subject: RE: A New Orleans Moment - early January
From: Desert Dancer
Date: 20 Nov 07 - 04:07 PM

Now I'm pretty sure we're talking about Friday the 28th of December, arriving in town 4:00 pm, leaving 7:10 am. Sure sorry that doesn't overlap with Sunday afternoon Cajun at Tipitina's!

~ Becky in Tucson

Subject: RE: A New Orleans Moment - early January
From: PoppaGator
Date: 20 Nov 07 - 04:03 PM

The Frenches are just one of several families with long musical histories here in town. I should remember the real first name of patriarch "Papa," but it eludes me just now. In any event, multiple members of three or four generations have serious musical credentials.

There's a weekly Cajun dance/performance at Tipitina's every Sunday in the late-afternoon/early-evening time frame. I haven't gone for years, but that doesn't mean it isn't worthwhile.

In fact, acting as "tour guide" for out-of-town guests has often given me good reason to attend a number of wonderful events. When you live in town, and something is available every single week, it's very easy to tell oneself, "Oh sure, I'll make it over there some time, just not this week..." In fact, Ernest's visit (from Berlin!) prompted Peggy and I to attend that Monday-night jam at Donna's for only the second time ever, and it turned out to be absolutely great.

One good thing about the Sunday afternoon Fais-Do-Do: it probably will NOT attract a huge number of college football fans. Tip's is uptown, somewhat off the beaten track of tourist attractions, and the event is at an unusual time of day.

Acme Oyster House in on Iberville, I'm pretty sure; they also have a couple of other locations outside the Quarter...

Subject: RE: A New Orleans Moment - early January
From: Ernest
Date: 20 Nov 07 - 03:16 PM

Ah... I knew that I wouldn`t remember everything correct - "Donna`s", not "Dana`s" and I probably mixed up the restaurants names too...

BTW in the Jazz museum they had a banjo belonging to a musician named "French" (don`t remember his first name , but I am sure it wasn`t Percy;0)...probably an ancestor of Bob and George F. too (or the same?)

Best
Ernest

Subject: RE: A New Orleans Moment - early January
From: astro
Date: 20 Nov 07 - 02:46 PM

Sounds like the French Quarter is it...though that was what we figured to be central. It does sound like some of the establishments will be fancier than we plan to be, more funky is good.

Actually, though DD thinks that Cajun might not work for me, I'm looking forward to experiencing all of NO....including Cajun music. So, don't forget to include that if you have suggestions! I have experienced it in Los Angeles several times and always enjoy it, along with jazz.

PoppaGator, it would be a pleasure to meet you and find out how you fared through the difficulties over the past few years. We in Los Angeles understand disaster (fires, floods, earthquakes, riots, etc.). You can see the best and worse in people through those times. Anyway we can meet would be wonderful, if it works!

Astro in Los Angeles....

Subject: RE: A New Orleans Moment - early January
From: Desert Dancer
Date: 20 Nov 07 - 02:30 PM

Hmm... with a bowl game on, we'd better get housing sorted soon, hadn't we.

~ B in T

Subject: RE: A New Orleans Moment - early January
From: PoppaGator
Date: 20 Nov 07 - 02:23 PM

The train station is perhaps a bit too far to walk to the FQ or anywhere else where you might be staying, but a taxi should be within reach ~ much less expensive than from the airport, that's for sure...

I don't like too-too-hot food, either, but you shouldn't be scared to try the local cuisine. With certain exceptions, most entrees you'd order and eat here in N.O. (or anywhere in South Louisiana) will not be nearly as peppery as the "fake Cajun" stuff served elsewhere! People add their own hot sauce, to taste. And hell, you guys live in the Southwest, where the local food is much hotter than anything we eat around here. Our hot peppers of choice, the cayenne and the tabasco, are nowhere near as fiery as those damn jalapenos you eat out there in the desert!

December 28th will probably be a more interesting time-frame, albeit more crowded, than early January. We will be hosting the Sugar Bowl game on New Years, as always, along with a lot of annual New Years hoopla. Plenty of folks from he outlying regions come to New Orleans for New Years, and the streets will be packed with, er, um, merrymakers. Be warned!

If, after asking around, I come up with any "insider" information on affordable lodging (B&Bs, etc.), I'll let you know. Can't promise anything, though, and I don't have any specific idea in mind at the moment.

Hi Ernest! By the way, it's "Donna's," and Monday night is the best night to visit there, when they have the free fried-chicken-and-red-beans buffet along with the all-star jazz jam. I'm not sure if they're even open on Sundays. Drummer and WWOZ DJ Bob French, who was the bandleader every Monday back when we met there, had some kind of conflict with Donna and her husband, so now Bob hosts a very similar Monday-night jam at some other bar (one of the spots on Frenchman St.), and Donna's now features the George French Band on Mondays. George is Bob's younger brother, a bass player and a terrific vocalist. Both are descendants of "Papa" French, one of the pioneers of early-early New Orleans Jazz.

Subject: RE: A New Orleans Moment - early January
From: GUEST,Mary Katherine
Date: 20 Nov 07 - 02:10 PM

No, you can't walk from the train station to the French Quarter but it is a five minute cab ride.
Check www.hotels.com and look for any of the following:
Le Richelieu Hotel
Hotel Provincial
Maison Dupuy
You should be able to get a room in any of these for $89/night or thereabouts.
Music: try to get to the clubs on Frenchmen Street (which if you stay at Le Richelieu is just across the street! Across Esplanade, that is). Also check the online music club listings in Offbeat Magazine www.offbeat.com to see who is playing in town that night. The recommendation for Antoine's Restaurant above needs a caveat: they have a dress code. So do Galatoire's and I think also the Windsor Court Grill Room: they are extremely expensive upscale places where ladies must dress nicely and men must wear coats and ties - if you're on a business trip you may be bringing these items in your wardrobe anyway, but if not, pass on those. For funky in the Quarter, try Coops on Decatur or the Acme Oyster House on, um....Poppagator, help? Is it Bienville or Iberville? or the Gumbo Shop on St. Peter. The best record store on the planet is The Louisiana Music Factory on Decatur across the street from House of Blues. Take home some New Orleans music!
Poppagator, can you email me? I've lost your e and can't seem to PM you. If you've lost mine too, it's on my web site. We can have a mini mudgather in New Orleans.

Subject: RE: A New Orleans Moment - early January
From: Desert Dancer
Date: 20 Nov 07 - 01:54 PM

Shoot -- I'm not at home with the actual information, and now that I look at it, maybe we're doing New Oleans on the trip out, instead of the trip back, which would make it on Dec. 28th... (we're going Tucson to New York, one direction we'll go through Chicago, and the other we'll go through New Orleans. I think originally it was New Orleans on the return, but then we switched it to be New Orleans on the way out so that we'd get into New York earlier in the day).

Anyway, other than the date and exact timing, the rest of the info stands! 8o)

~ B in T

Subject: RE: A New Orleans Moment - early January
From: Ernest
Date: 20 Nov 07 - 01:49 PM

another cross post from me...hello Tom, all the best from me...
Ernest

Subject: RE: A New Orleans Moment - early January
From: Ernest
Date: 20 Nov 07 - 01:47 PM

Hey, I envy you...New orleans is a great place.

Contacting PoppaGator is probably the most important advice you can get here, my information might be outdated.

Concerning music I would recommend the Washboard Chaz Blues trio (see www.washboardchaz.com - washboard, harmonica, dobro), Mountain Sprout (bluegrass band playing in the street, same dobro player as WBC), the session at "Dana`s" ... I am sure you will find other interesting things on your own. Preservation Hall is a little touristish...you have to pay /stand in line for one set.

Definitely worth seeing is the Jazz Museum, Gallaher (sp?) house and and and....you are going to miss a big exhibition about the N.O. painter George Rodrigue which starts in march, but you will see enough of his art - just watch for the blue dog.

For food I remember a nice restaurant called "Antoine`s" (cajun food is generally recommendable) and the creole coffee with chicoree and the beignets at the Cafe du monde (if you buy a can to take home you will find that the cans even sound nice...I am tempted touse them for percussion).

Whatever you do, I am sure you will have a great time!

Best wishes

Ernest

Subject: RE: A New Orleans Moment - early January
From: Desert Dancer
Date: 20 Nov 07 - 01:46 PM

Thanks, PoppaGator, we cross-posted. Looking it up again, it looks like we'll arrive about 7:30pm on Jan. 6, and depart about noon on Jan. 7.

On the music front, Astro's a jazz fan, Dan's a budding drummer, and I'd probably like to hear some traditional cajun, but I may be outnumbered. As I recall, just strolling Bourbon street, there'll be plenty to dazzle us.

None of us is into spicy food (so that's probably another strike against the cajun experience...).

~ Becky in Tucson

Subject: RE: A New Orleans Moment - early January
From: Desert Dancer
Date: 20 Nov 07 - 01:38 PM

Thanks, Mary Katherine, your notes look very useful.

What astro didn't mention is that we'll be on an Amtrak layover, changing from the Crescent to the Sunset Limited, so we'll need to get from and to the train station, which is at 1001 Loyola Avenue, near the Superdome.

I've been in New Orleans before (as a tourist, during a conference), but astro and my son (age 12) haven't. The French Quarter is the obvious choice for a quick taste of the city. Would it be walkable from the train station? Is there a bus or trolley, or will we need a taxi? Unless there are luggage lockers in the train station, we'll be carrying our daypacks.

Casual and inexpensive is what we'll be looking for, for both food and housing.

I think we get in in the early evening on Sunday, and leave late morning on Monday. We'll have been sitting for a couple of days on the train, so I'm not sure if that means we'll be in need of sleep or not! ;-)

~ Becky in Tucson

Subject: RE: A New Orleans Moment - early January
From: PoppaGator
Date: 20 Nov 07 - 01:37 PM

Here, present and accounted for. Sorry I'm late...

Let's get together, for sure. I'll be thinking about what's happening on Sunday evenings in general, and as the date (which date, exactly?) approaches, I'll be looking into that particular Sunday evening's schedule.

Mary Katherine's recommendations are worth looking into. She probably knows more about visiting New Orleans (from an "outsider's" point of view) than any of us living here could tell you.

Also, you would do well to start listening to WWOZ on your computer (www.wwoz.org) as a way to get acclimated. The "livewire update" at the top of each odd-numbered hour (Central Time) will give you an idea about the number of live musical venues & acts that can be experienced on any given night.

MK, yes, let's you and I get together too, finally, this year...

Subject: RE: A New Orleans Moment - early January
From: GUEST,Mary Katherine
Date: 20 Nov 07 - 11:55 AM

Plance to stay: well, I would suggest that if this is your first time you stay in the French Quarter, since you'll be walking distance from lots of fun places to explore and eat at. You have so little time there (and some of it has to be spent in sleeping) that you'll probably only have time for one or two meals there. A bit more information, pleae: are you looking for restaurants that are funky casual? Old South elegant and expensive? What kind of music do you like? Do you have time for/want to do any shopping?
You're welcome to take a look at my Goofy Guide to the French Quarter, which is on my web sire at www.aliveandpicking.com (click on NOLA), but I'm sure when Poppagator sees this thread he'll have lots of good advice.
By the way, Poppagator, I'm in New Orleans December 17-24. Coffee??

Subject: RE: A New Orleans Moment - early January
From: Desert Dancer
Date: 20 Nov 07 - 11:32 AM

bump again; waiting for PoppaGator to sign in, I guess.

Subject: RE: A New Orleans Moment - early January
From: katlaughing
Date: 20 Nov 07 - 01:32 AM

Let's bump this to the ^top.

Subject: BS: A New Orleans Moment
From: astro
Date: 19 Nov 07 - 09:15 PM

Desert Dancer, son, and I will be in New Orleans for an overnight layover Sunday Night in early January (for 16 hours in fact) and were interested if anyone might know what music, food, and places to stay might be available. We'll have that night to explore and would like to use it well! Thanks for any help you might be able to give us...

Astro of Tucson and Los Angeles (bimodal)