Subject: BS: Postcard fron 'Dendros' 2024
From:
Roger the Skiffler
Date: 26 Jun 24 - 11:31 AM
We had a week’s tour of Crete’s ancient sites in May but I didn’t think there was anything particularly unique or amusing worth a “Postcard”.
As the dwindling number of ‘Catters who read these Postcards will know, we’ve been coming to the island I call “Dendros2 20 times in the last 29 years and it is increasingly difficult to say anything new and even more difficult to photograph anything that looks different from previous years. A few photos will find their way on to Thimbles O’Hooligan’s Facebook page.
Our journey to Gatwick took longer than expected as the M23 Gatwick exit was closed for roadworks and the diversion signs unclear. The queue for bagdrop was horrendous (it used to be a quick option but now everyone checks in online) and security was also slow so we didn’t have time for breakfast at the airport and were forced to buy a bacon roll on the plane.
At the much-improved Kos airport the very helpful assistant for our wheelchair friend allowed us to jump the queue for passport control to go through with him and he also pushed him to front of the taxi queue. We had a leisurely lunch at the port accompanied by the usual welcome from the taverna staff who claim to remember us. 2.30 ferry cancelled (one boat still out of order for repair: we were told locally the delay was due to the bill for the previous repair being unpaid) so we caught the 4pm. Our landlord met us with his 2 grown up sons who drove the four of us, luggage, wheelchair and all up to the village, 40 minutes to catch us up with the family news (younger son getting married next month- great excitement) and they carried our luggage to the apartments. There is a choice to get car to stop at upper road where there is a gate and 20 plus steep steps down or the car stops at the beach and luggage is carried or wheeled across the shingle for 100 yards and through lower gate and up several flights of steps (probably as many in total). We were left with the usual welcome pack of fruit, water, wine, preserve and honey. Later on a large spanakopita and tiropita were to arrive and a local expat made us a large bougatsa!
During the week in our usual taverna there was music from our host and visiting guitarists from UK, Germany and Turkey, a keyboard player from Turkey and some out of tune Brit on kazoo.
With our friends in the next apartment we shares a hire car for 2 days (much easier now that a guy in the village has a couple of cars for hire which saves a wasted half day collecting and returning the car to the capital. ) He had a very relaxed attitude, no deposit, no document check, we got the keys a day before we needed the car. After we handed it back, it was 2 days before he came for the money and waived half the cost of petrol as it wasn’t full when we got it!. This enabled us to visit some of our other favourite spots and have lunch I two other villages and catch up with some friends and get some supplies in the main town that the village shop didn’t stock (the shop-keeper who we’ve known for the 29 years lost her husband over the winter and was still finding it difficult.
As our friend in the wheelchair or 2 sticks had a UK Blue Badge and Greek equivalent we were able to park in a disabled bay, rarely left free by able bodied drivers The clever street planners had omitted to leave a gap in the sidewalk railing to allow passenger door to open or wheelchair to pass through. The driver had to stop away from the kerb to let the passenger out and then repark. Leaving meant a reversal of the procedure. To be really helpful the zebra crossing was 2 parking bays away from the disabled bay and someone was parked across it. I had to stand in the middle of the road with my hand up to stop the traffic (Greek drivers rarely stop for pedestrians) so our friend could make his was across. One of the places we visit it St Savva’s Monastery, high on the hill affording views over the town. The week before we left S had done home visits to two women who both had connections with Greece and she had promised to light candles for them at St S. Unfortunately the candle racks were empty and the elderly nun who staffs the tiny shop speaks no English and our Greek didn’t run to “where are the candles?” We learned subsequently from a local that the candles are hidden in a drawer behind the piece of furniture.
Another person who always greets as (or at least, S) warmly (too warmly, I think!), is the travelling fruit and veg man who comes to the village every day. He has his favourite parking spot under the tamarisk trees and objects to anyone else parking there. There is no indication of this and no-one deters unsuspecting parkers. If he finds a car there he tries the door, if open he lats the handbrake off and rolls the car way to give him space. If it Is locked, he prowls the beach to find the owner and gets the key! If it is a motorbike, he usually lifts it out of the way but one day we saw him just parallel park blocking access to the 2 bikes. When 4 tourists turned up for their bikes he just told them to go and have lunch and come back when he’d moved to the next village, When passing locals want to buy from him they just stop opposite his van blocking the main village street until they have completed their purchases.
Once again we were there for the Feast of the Birth of John the Baptist which for some obscure reason the Orthodox celebrate by young men jumping over fires. I suspect it has older pagan origins. There had been the usual village bickering over who should gather the fire materials and clear up afterwards so instead of young men and teens somersaulting over fires on the jetty and into the sea a smaller group of fires organised by the village parents for the younger children took place on the beach opposite the taverna we usually eat at.
The temperatures were even hotter than UK : 30-35 degrees every day. On my way back from dinner one evening I had a bout of vertigo which I attributed to too much caffeine and not enough water (not the alcohol, honest), and all those steps. We did, however, manage to do a couple of our usual walks around the village on a cloudy day,, but sensibly left the steeper walk we usually do for another year- everywhere in the village away from the beach is uphill.
Our return journey was much better. Our landlord send his chosen taxi drivers 9his sons were working) who carried our luggage from apartment to taxi and we were at the port in time for a coffee. To give our landlord the keys and thank him & his family for all their kindnesses. The ferry crew ley us board early (travelling with a wheelchair has its benefits!). At Kos we got a taxi big enough for all 4 plus luggage & wheelchair. We didn’t have time to eat at our usual taverna there but they let us use the facilities as we were ‘family’. We breezed through Kos airport with none of last year’s delays with time to shop and have a snack before takeoff. As Gatwick we got through passport, luggage and customs within 45 minutes, a record I should think. The bus to our carpark was there in minutes and apart from speed restrictions on M25 roadworks we had a good drive home.
In September we should be in Agistri and if this gets some views I’ll do a Postcard. Next year? Watch this space.
RtS
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sj
