How to replace a guitar bridge

Subject: How to repare a guitar bridge
From: Pappy Fiddle
Date: 12 Sep 25 - 04:58 PM

I have a Fender 12-string. I found that the high E-string (the string closest to my chin) was buzzing against the frets. For some unknown reason, the bridge has started leaning toward the sound hole, reducing the action. I talked to people at the local music store, they said the fix would be to remove the bridge and glue it back on.

They could do this but the cost would be something like $200-300, more than the guitar be worth.

They said they would use use heat to soften the glue and it would come loose. I'm trying to think of how to do that. Here's one thought:

Get some sand, wrap it in a square of aluminum foil, stick it in the oven for 15 minutes at say 350 F, then put it on top of the bridge and press down so the shape conforms and the heat transfers evenly.

I wonder if this will turn the varnish black around the bridge, or some other disaster.

Subject: RE: How to replace a guitar bridge
From: Nick Dow
Date: 12 Sep 25 - 07:37 PM

Destring it. get an iron and gently heat the bridge just enough to soften the glue. Get a spatula and gently slide it under the bridge. This may take a long time. Eventually the bridge will remove.
You need to check if there are rivets on either side of the bridge. There often are with 12 string guitars. Then you need to see if your top is flat or pulling away from the inside. If it is it will need gluing back and clamping. Eventually reattach the bridge when you have sanded off the old glue Clamp it up and when it is dry restring it and off you go.

Subject: RE: How to replace a guitar bridge
From: GUEST,Jerry
Date: 13 Sep 25 - 03:50 AM

I’m assuming simple fixes like adjusting the truss rod, hydrating the inside of the guitar to help lift the whole table, using a lighter string gauge, inserting a wedge in the string’s nut slot, etc are not the answer. If the bridge is lifting from the soundboard then yes it needs to be reset anyway, but removing it is only part of the job; ideally you need c clamps to hold the re-glued bridge in place for a while, plus something more than normal household glue, otherwise it will soon lift again, due to whatever is already causing that.

Subject: RE: How to replace a guitar bridge
From: Backwoodsman
Date: 13 Sep 25 - 04:45 AM

”the bridge has started leaning toward the sound hole, reducing the action.”

The bridge? Or just the saddle? Two different problems with different fixes.

Subject: RE: How to replace a guitar bridge
From: Fred
Date: 13 Sep 25 - 05:43 AM

If you're going to remove the bridge, score all around its edge on the top to prevent any lacquer damage.

By the way, the string closest to your chin is the LOW (bass) E :)

But if you're not confident you can do the job, I'd say don't even try. If it's a good guitar and you like it, decide if it's worth it to you to have a shop do it.

-F

Subject: RE: How to replace a guitar bridge
From: Backwoodsman
Date: 13 Sep 25 - 05:48 AM

Fred, it’s a 12-string, so the string nearest the player’s chin is the high ‘E’, followed by the low ‘E’ - unless it’s a Rickenbacker, which has the pairs reversed, Low ‘E’ then high ‘E’.

Subject: RE: How to replace a guitar bridge
From: Fred
Date: 13 Sep 25 - 05:58 AM

*facepalm* of course!

That'll teach me lol.

-F

Subject: RE: How to replace a guitar bridge
From: GUEST
Date: 13 Sep 25 - 01:41 PM

Try a quote from a different repairer, if you like the guitar it’s still going to be cheaper than buying a new one, if you’ve not worked on guitars before you’ll probably wreck it.
This kind of job is always more complicated than you might think. 12 strings are notorious for this because of the stress of the string pull. A local luthier, if you can find one, will probably be a better bet than a music shop repairer and most of them are happy to help.