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Pressure cooker lid stuck
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Subject: RE: Pressure cooker lid stuck From: Q (Frank Staplin) Date: 03 Nov 13 - 01:01 PM We have since recycled all aluminum cooking ware because of the warnings about toxicity. |
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Subject: RE: Pressure cooker lid stuck From: Q (Frank Staplin) Date: 02 Nov 13 - 08:02 PM We retired a pressure cooker to the rubbish bin some 50 years ago (no recycle here then). Whatever would one want one for nowadays? |
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Subject: RE: Pressure cooker lid stuck From: JohnInKansas Date: 02 Nov 13 - 01:50 AM While the thread is getting a few gray hairs, it still is a subject that possibly merits additional discussion. It also is clear that some who have commented here have only a vague understanding of how these machines work. Understanding them is one thing that's essential to using them safely. When water is heated it boils. At sea level atmospheric pressure it boils at about 212 degrees F (100 C). At 15 psi higher pressure it boils at about 250 F (121 C). The difference in temperature is what makes things "cook faster" under pressure. The usual "pressure regulator" is a small weight that sits on top of a "pin" on the lid of the cooker. Some pressure cookers had three cylindrical weights that could be nested one inside the other, so that you could choose which one - or how many - to use to select 5, 10, or 15 psi. The more common regulator weight is a single round one with three holes, and which hole you put on the pin determines which pressure you get. The top of the pin is tapered, so the diameter of the hole in the weight, where it sits on the pin, determines how much pressure is required to lift it far enouh off the pin to release some steam. Releasing a small amount of steam removes a lot of heat from the inside of the pot, so small periodic "jiggles" of the weight will indicate proper regulation of the pressure. Instructions with most cookers say the weight should "jiggle" briefly approximately once every 15 to 20 seconds so that you know that control is still effective. (If it stops jiggling, or shakes continuously, turn the heat off and figure out what's wrong.) Some pressure cookers have had "pressure indicators" separate from the jiggle weight, but NONE OF THESE HAVE EVER BEEN EITHER ACCURATE OR RELIABLE and few pressure cookers intended for home use have used them for some time, although they may still be found on some "commercial" cookers. The periodic jiggle of the regulator weight should be a sufficient indicator that correct pressure is being maintained. Since the whole process depends on the variation in boiling point temperature of water under pressure, it is absolutely necessary that there must be sufficient water in the cooker at all times to maintain the pressure and to provide the small amounts released by the regulator. In addition to the pressure regulator (the jiggle weight) all cookers will have a "fusible plug" that will melt and make a vent hole if the temperature of the pot exceeds a safe limit. Some recent models have used a "plastic" plug intended to soften and blow out of a hole, but the fusible metal ones are safer, in my opinion. I've never seen a plastic that doesn't "change its properties" with aging (including its melting point), and a proper metal fuse plug is forever and won't change how it works - until you actually do melt it of course. The gasket that's been the main subject of this thread is necessary to provide a secure seal with "economically practical" dimensional tolerances of the mating metal parts, and to accomodate some wear of the parts. It is designed with a "V" shape so that internal pressure presses the sealing surfaces together during intial presurizing. Any "sticking" of the gasket is most likely due to surface films of fats, oils, and food residues left on the gasket, as the gasket materials themselves are relatively inert. The gasket is designed to accomodate large "misfits" between the parts, so heating and other such maltreatments are exceedingly unlikely to be of much benefit. (It may also be noted that the Al used in most pots will actually melt at high oven temperatures (~450-500 F, 230-260 C), so extreme heating is inadvisable.) Soaking with fresh oils similar to the ones that have hardened on the gasket may soften the sticky stuff, if enough can be leaked into the pot to get to the gasket. Plain slightly soapy water, left to soak for a while, is likely to be as effective as any more exotic penetrants, and will affect a more versatile range of "adherents" if you're not sure what kind of "sticky" might be on your gasket. If your sink is deep enough, you may be able to get enough in by just submerging the pot. If bubbles come out, you can assume that some water is going in. After you get some inside, turn the whole pot upside down to get it on the gasket and let it sit for a while. Then "wiggle and repeat the soaking" until it comes loose. It is recommended by all makers I've seen that the gasket should be removed for storage. If a very long storage isn't expected, an expedient is to just turn the lid upside down and lay it on top of the lower part of the pot. Since the lid is invariably "dome shaped" you can't stack anything on top of it if the pot is assembled, but with the lid flopped over it's amazing how much "stuff" can be accumulated on top. (This works for crock pots with domed lids too.) Although lots of people report "exploding pressure cookers," an actual explosion is extremely unlikely. What happens is that the heating and pressure buildup is too rapid and the "jiggler" blows off its peg, or the regulator gets "stuck" (because the hole in the little peg gets plugged) and the fusible plug blows out. The almost instantaneous release of pressure in either case means that all the contents inside the pot are above their boiling point, and the contents bubble up and are "squirted" out one of the holes. In an extreme case the whole pot may act like it's rocket propelled, but usually it's just a lot of incredibly hot "juice" propelled all over the place. This superheated fluid is extremely dangerous and can cause very serious burns, since it's nearly always mixed with whatever sticky stuff is in the pot, and it's close to 300 F (149 C). If it can be safely done, turning the heat off or pushing the pot of the burner (with a long stick?) may help; but in some cases the best response is just to RUN LIKE HELL and stay clear until it stops spewing. Even without injuries, an event like this is "exciting," but should never happen if you RTFM and follow the instructions for safe cooking with your pressure cooker. A most common cause of "incidents" is cooking something that can "bubble up" and plug the little hole in the regulator pin. Dried beans (adequately presoaked to plump them up) that would take 3 to 6 hours of ordinary cooking can be done in about 15 minutes at 15 psi, but heating rates (and how often the jiggler bounces) must be very carefully watched, and the minimum heat that gets the pot up to pressure must be carefully applied. (Several things that might benefit most from pressure cooking are "not recommended" by the user guides. Beans are usually on the list.) RTFM, and then think about what you're doing and pressure cookers can be quite safe and very useful. John |
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Subject: RE: Pressure cooker lid stuck From: GUEST,Mary Date: 01 Nov 13 - 10:17 PM I have the same problem except my mom had the cooker in the back of a cabinet for probably 25 years with the lid on. I am trying everything to get the seal to release. I am sure the rubber is totally stuck to both the lid and pan. I removed the rubber pressure seal on the top so i could get water into the pan. I have tried heating it for a good while, putting oil on the lid, etc. Will try your WD 40 next and let it set for a couple of days with repeated applications. |
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Subject: RE: Pressure cooker lid stuck From: Bert Date: 19 Nov 11 - 11:39 AM Beef is not cheap nowadays, it depends where you live Richard. The cheapest we see is often 7-bone pot roast at Safeway here in Colorado Springs at $2.49 a pound. You have to check the weekly flyers though, because you only see it at that price about once in three weeks. We buy it regularly, it usually has a tender chunk right in the middle that that we cut out and fry up as steak. Then the not quite so tender parts are cut up into 1/4 inch squares and made into patties and fried. That tastes much more like steak than grinding it would. This chopped steak also gets used in chile. The bones and tougher parts get stewed. |
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Subject: RE: Pressure cooker lid stuck From: Gurney Date: 18 Nov 11 - 09:08 PM 999, I've read that chicken is nearer 2:1, and that the ratio of farts-to-beef also adds to global warming. There are cows here which have gasbags on their backs to measure their emissions. Patsy, a good use for a pressure cooker is for chicken stew. After you take the breast and legs off, pressure-cook the carcase until you can eat the bones easily. Then no-one will need to buy the calcium pills. I'm really not kidding. They can cook almost anything to tenderness. |
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Subject: RE: Pressure cooker lid stuck From: GUEST,999 Date: 18 Nov 11 - 02:13 PM Speaking with a fellow yesterday in the supermarket. He said that in most of Canada beef is a 22:1 ratio and pork, chicken and sheep a 3:1, the ratio being grain to meat production. That is, 22 lbs of grain to make 1 lb of beef, etc. He could understand the high cost of beef but not the other meats. |
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Subject: RE: Pressure cooker lid stuck From: Richard Bridge Date: 18 Nov 11 - 02:01 PM Sounds a good place to start - now I need to start hunting the cheap cuts of beef for the purpose - what we call "braising steak" is still not that cheap. |
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Subject: RE: Pressure cooker lid stuck From: Stilly River Sage Date: 18 Nov 11 - 01:57 PM Make a batch of beef stew, Richard. Cook the meat first, pull it off the heat long enough to lower the pressure so you can open it to add the veggies, and when that is finished, add any extra liquid and simmer like a regular pot on the stove to thicken the gravy with a little flour and water. It's a lot faster for stew this way, or pot roast, or stewed chicken, etc. SRS |
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Subject: RE: Pressure cooker lid stuck From: Richard Bridge Date: 18 Nov 11 - 01:28 PM They are not as speedy as a microwave, but they are speedier than conventional cooking. They allegedly (well, the makers say so) reduce loss of nutrients and improve flavour retention. I am half interested in trying out some of the broth recipes and stuff. There are some stupid cheap on Amazon right now, but I'd rather get the old one working... Old is good! |
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Subject: RE: Pressure cooker lid stuck From: Stilly River Sage Date: 18 Nov 11 - 10:20 AM There was an occasion when I was a kid when my family was invited over to my cousin's house for dinner; as the dinner hour approached we learned that she had put the meat in the crock pot but forgotten to turn it on. She was aghast at the discovery, but my mother calmly showed her how to set up the pressure cooker she'd never used and dinner was ready in about 45 minutes. They do have their applications, and if you have a big one for canning, they allow you to process a lot of complex foods (meat sauces and low-acid foods, for example). SRS |
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Subject: RE: Pressure cooker lid stuck From: GUEST,Patsy Date: 18 Nov 11 - 05:42 AM Going by most of the threads here I won't be in any hurry to purchase one. Are there any advantages to having a pressure cooker, does it make the food taste better or shorten the cooking time that's if you are not blown sky high in the process! |
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Subject: RE: Pressure cooker lid stuck From: GUEST,999 Date: 18 Nov 11 - 12:17 AM Richard, if your doofer is plugged up, don't be telling people. Little kids will laugh, dogs will bark and horses will shy. As you pass by, adults will whisper to their children, "There goes Richard. He has a plugged up doofer." You may even be featured in one of the UK rags: Doofus Blames Plugged Up Doofer On Orts! causing millions of people to think you have contracted a terrible disease never discussed in polite company. The shame. Well-meaning folk will be lighting candles and raising glasses to you to hurry a cure, thus putting even more pressure on your cooker. Exercise care my friend, and if you DO locate and purchase the parts you need, do so under an alias. |
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Subject: RE: Pressure cooker lid stuck From: Stilly River Sage Date: 17 Nov 11 - 11:09 PM No, you'll talk to someone who you know in the U.S. who will order the parts and ship them to you. OR, you'll look for that exact part on eBay and buy it and have them ship it to you. Easy Peasy. SRS :) |
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Subject: RE: Pressure cooker lid stuck From: Richard Bridge Date: 17 Nov 11 - 05:30 PM Latest development - it seems Presto can identify my cooker. And they have the spare parts. But will they ship outside the USA/Canada - no. Fortunately once Presto have confirmed the right part numbers there are other parts suppliers in the USA who will ship to the UK, but it's so infuriating. What do Presto think I'm going to do, fly to the USA to buy $20 of parts? |
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Subject: RE: Pressure cooker lid stuck From: Gurney Date: 17 Nov 11 - 03:40 PM That type of pressure cooker has a weight blocking a hole (the indicator weight) which is the primary safety valve, and a plastic doohickey that is intended to blow out a peg if the primary safety should fail to relieve overpressure. My Mum had one. My Dad used to check that the doohickey peg wasn't glued in with dried food. Not daft, my Dad. Pressure cookers CAN be dangerous if they are used by careless or ignorant people, but so can lots of things in the kitchen. The heaviest fuse in the house protects the electric cooker, because that's using the biggest power. Older gas cookers rely for safety on a tiny flame that wouldn't light a cigarette, the newer ones on a piezo device that works when it is new! And if you used oven cleaner spray in a factory, the Safety Officer would issue a full face mask and probably breathing gear! |
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Subject: RE: Pressure cooker lid stuck From: Richard Bridge Date: 17 Nov 11 - 12:05 PM It's not going to blow up. Look at the pictures I linked to. See that little black safety dum on the lid a couple of inches away from the indicator weight? It's a not very tough plastic. It will blow out LONG before the cast aluminium a quarter of an inch thick starts getting stressy. |
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Subject: RE: Pressure cooker lid stuck From: Stilly River Sage Date: 17 Nov 11 - 10:23 AM You should smell just how awful burned potatoes are if you don't have enough water in the pot. And it took ages to get the marks off of my cooker, after it came back in from the yard. You have to pay attention to what you're doing with one of those. I agree with crazy little woman - do yourself a favor and replace it. SRS |
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Subject: RE: Pressure cooker lid stuck From: Donuel Date: 17 Nov 11 - 09:40 AM I have seen the results of a pressure cooker explosion, burns and disfigurment of the hand and wrist. My reaction surprised me in that the horror actually evoked a kind of laughter which I had not intended. Similarly I laughed when my broken leg and ankle was set. I would not buy or use any low cost machine that would invite catastrophic failure. |
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Subject: RE: Pressure cooker lid stuck From: GUEST,crazy little woman Date: 17 Nov 11 - 09:31 AM My aunt had a pressure-cooker story, one of those family stories that get told and retold for years. She was cooking beans in the pressure cooker one day, when something got clogged. Pressure built up until the lid was blown off the cooker, and beans were blasted clear up to the ceiling, where they stuck and had to be cleaned off with considerable effort. I'm older and wiser now, and I shudder to think that that hot lid could have hit somebody in the family. And burns from steam are terrible. Richard, your pressure cooker is old and unreliable. Replace it. |
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Subject: RE: Pressure cooker lid stuck From: Richard Bridge Date: 17 Nov 11 - 05:49 AM Indicator weight indicator is definitely stuck. After a night's soaking in WD40, I pressurised again and I had steam coming out round the indicator itself and eventually steam lifted the whole weight off its taper seat without getting any reading on the little pole thing that tells you the pressure. |
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Subject: RE: Pressure cooker lid stuck From: Richard Bridge Date: 17 Nov 11 - 04:10 AM Thank you Michaela. No, it's a completely different model. Mine is made by the National Pressure Cooker Co, it's labelled "Presto" and it appears to be functionally identical (with trivial cosmetic differences) to the small Presto model 40 |
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Subject: RE: Pressure cooker lid stuck From: GUEST,Michaela Date: 17 Nov 11 - 03:03 AM I love my pressure cooker, use it all the time. Is it the same model as mine? Check it out and let me know. Maybe I can help. http://youtu.be/curvGM0GbNs |
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Subject: RE: Pressure cooker lid stuck From: GUEST,Guest from Sanity Date: 17 Nov 11 - 02:37 AM Well, for God sakes stay away from 'Subject: BS: Pressure Cooker Recipes' GfS |
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Subject: RE: Pressure cooker lid stuck From: maire-aine Date: 16 Nov 11 - 09:14 PM Glad to hear that the "patient" has survived. My parents got two pressure cookers for wedding presents in 1942. I have them now, and use them all the time. They will last forever. Keep the pressure on! |
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Subject: RE: Pressure cooker lid stuck From: Rapparee Date: 16 Nov 11 - 08:32 PM A pressure cooker makes a pretty good pot for a still. |
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Subject: RE: Pressure cooker lid stuck From: Desert Dancer Date: 16 Nov 11 - 08:03 PM You store a pressure cooker with the lid off so the gasket is not under compression for long periods causing it to permanently deform and then not seal properly when in use. This is probably more of an issue with the original rubber gasket than the new silicon/plastic gaskets. ~ Becky in Tucson |
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Subject: RE: Pressure cooker lid stuck From: Stilly River Sage Date: 16 Nov 11 - 05:56 PM All of this tempts me to get out my pressure cooker and a pot roast . . . we haven't had anywhere near the good quality cooking threads we used to since Rick Fielding died. I never met him, and though I know he was a great source of music information, he sure could start a heckuva cooking thread! Brought out some of our best recipes for him, we did! SRS |
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Subject: RE: Pressure cooker lid stuck From: Little Hawk Date: 16 Nov 11 - 05:48 PM Thank heavens the crisis has been resolved! I couldn't sleep for...how long has it been? |
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Subject: RE: Pressure cooker lid stuck From: gnu Date: 16 Nov 11 - 04:57 PM Huh? WD-40 is edible innit? |
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Subject: RE: Pressure cooker lid stuck From: Greg B Date: 16 Nov 11 - 04:43 PM Don't use WD40. Use food-grade silicon spray, which can be obtained in most hardware stores and which also works a treat on the noisy tread of your exercise treadmill. |
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Subject: RE: Pressure cooker lid stuck From: Richard Bridge Date: 16 Nov 11 - 02:58 PM Right. I have pressure. Lots, it seems. What a mission getting that bloody sealing ring seated again was! Pressure is even lifting the weight so that must be quite close to "Bang" point - but no steam from the overpressure bung either. But the pressure indicator is not doing anything so either I get to fix that (could be WD40 up its bum again) or I get a new one, and after getting a snotty response first time from Presto I have E-shouted and they are co-operating. First, WD 40. Next heat it up like buggery and hope the overpressure valve saves me from a large explosion of superheated steam. |
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Subject: RE: Pressure cooker lid stuck From: Richard Bridge Date: 16 Nov 11 - 11:48 AM Rap - no I have no tatts. Not anywhere. PLU don't. No, I'm pretty sure he sterilised only in medical grade distilled water - but I'll check. User is a fusspot and will have followed industry standard sterilisation routines. I have the recipe book that came when the cooker was new but cannot really use the device until I am sure it is working OK - next stop the little pressure gauge in the control weight and the overpressure plug. I reckon I can re-use the O ring if I have to, now I have cleaned it up with a scourer it does not seem to be sticky at all. Maybe I should scan the recipe book and put the pages up on photobucket or something! |
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Subject: RE: Pressure cooker lid stuck From: gnomad Date: 16 Nov 11 - 09:34 AM Oh good. Now we just need to get him using it, have we had a pressure cooker recipe thread yet? |
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Subject: RE: Pressure cooker lid stuck From: Rapparee Date: 16 Nov 11 - 09:31 AM The friend who used it to sterilize his tattooing stuff -- did he use a chlorine-containing product? If so, that could be the source not only of the white residue but of the greasy feel as the chlorine could have affected the seal. I don't believe pressure cookers can hold enough pressure to adequatley sterilize what amounts to medical equipment. If he gave you a free tattoo in exchange for using your cooker you might keep an eye out for possible infection. You should also let us know what the tattoo was. |
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Subject: RE: Pressure cooker lid stuck From: Pete Jennings Date: 16 Nov 11 - 06:29 AM Phew! I'm glad you got that lid off! I need a lie down... |
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Subject: RE: Pressure cooker lid stuck From: Richard Bridge Date: 16 Nov 11 - 06:15 AM The ebay link I put up earlier showed the O-ring very clearly. The O-ring seems swollen so I think a new one is on the cards - from National. The rest I am running through the dishwasher first - the white stuff in mine was greasy to handle - but with the O-ring removed the handles turn to the correct closed position just nicely and open just nicely too. The instructions DO say to store with the lid off. |
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Subject: RE: Pressure cooker lid stuck From: Backwoodsman Date: 16 Nov 11 - 05:24 AM What empty lives some people have. :-) :-) We store ours with the lid off. It's never got stuck storing it that way. Simples. |
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Subject: RE: Pressure cooker lid stuck From: JohnInKansas Date: 16 Nov 11 - 05:09 AM Although an oxide film can form on virgin aluminum, it takes quite a lot of "molecular energy" to get a visible oxide layer. The high molecular energy difference between Al and O separately and Al2O3 is sufficient to make it unlikely. And the oxide is extremely hard (like sandpaper hardness). Aluminum corrosion that's white and powdery is usually an aluminum chloride/chlorate, indicating the presence of "something salty" (think NaCl) during storage. Aluminum Sulphate corrosion products look similar, and have similar properties. It's possible that the gasket leached out enough sulphur (it's a common vulcanizng additive) to produce some sulfate if it's an old gasket. (Decaying food often releases some sulphur too, so there's nearly always a little around.) Either is usually soft, and should clean off easily enough with a little abrasive (scouring powder?), although if it's "advanced" it may leave some pitting where it's sucked some aluminum out of the pot. It sounds like you've got the usual design, in which the seal gasket is easily removable just by pulling it out of the lid. The instructions I've seen with several such is that the gasket should be removed from the lid for storage. Most people just coil it up in the bottom of the pot so it's not compressed while it's just sitting there. If you've learned it, the "V-Belt flip" - also useful for bandsaw blades - coils the gasket up with three turns so that it has no torsional stess while stored; but just "stuffing it" into bottom of the pot will assure that the lid will be loose next time you're ready to open it up. If you're storing it for a long time, you probably should "air it" for a day to make sure it's dryer than you can get it just by wiping with a cloth. I usually like to put mine in the oven (loose gasket included) at about 140F (60C) for a couple of hours before putting the lid on to store it. John |
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Subject: RE: Pressure cooker lid stuck From: nutty Date: 16 Nov 11 - 04:22 AM This site shows that the cookers definitely have a sealing ring CLICK So buying a new seal may be all you need to do. |
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Subject: RE: Pressure cooker lid stuck From: MartinRyan Date: 16 Nov 11 - 04:20 AM Good news! |
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Subject: RE: Pressure cooker lid stuck From: Richard Bridge Date: 16 Nov 11 - 04:15 AM I like the olive oil idea in that I can get quite a lot in, and if I can find a short bolt the same thread as the main ventilation hole I can even invert the object and heat it in the oven to pressurise it slightly and force the oil into the seal. BUT I DON'T NEED IT! I just had another manual go at it after it leaving WD40 on the outside of the join overnight and although a bit stiff it yielded! I will now need to clean the whole thoroughly and remove and examine the seal - there is evidence of white deposits generally around the inside and that might either be inadequate cleaning by last user or it might be aluminium corrosion although I've never seen aluminium oxide look like that (and of course the point about aluminium corrosion as distinct from iron corrosion is that both FeO and Fe203 (and the resulting mixture usual dubbed Fe304 make larger molecules than steel and so flake off so exposing a fresh layer of virgin metal to corrode, whereas that is not so of aluminium oxide - so I would not expect aluminium oxide to tighten joints). I'll also need to check the pressure indicator (which seems not to be moving) and probably replace the overpressure safety plug. The instructions say NOT to store with the lid on, and I had done exactly that so it's probably my fault in the first place. Pressure indicator I think first job will be to boil it in a pan of water with detergent in to see if that frees it up. |
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Subject: RE: Pressure cooker lid stuck From: Joe Offer Date: 16 Nov 11 - 02:59 AM The suspense is killing me, Richard. I want to hear a report of success! Gurney's suggestion of penetrating oil sounds like a good one, but I'd follow his suggestion to try olive oil first. -Joe- |
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Subject: RE: Pressure cooker lid stuck From: Backwoodsman Date: 16 Nov 11 - 02:43 AM Stop being a tight-arse. Take it to the tip. Throw it in the recycling skip. Buy a new one. You know it makes sense. |
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Subject: RE: Pressure cooker lid stuck From: Little Hawk Date: 16 Nov 11 - 12:45 AM Plan D: medieval battering ram, brick wall (for backstop), and approximately a dozen to 20 unemployed Welshmen. |
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Subject: RE: Pressure cooker lid stuck From: Gurney Date: 16 Nov 11 - 12:25 AM Plan C. A light application of penetrating oil (or olive oil, that works!) at the seal. Wipe off surplus for your trousers' sake. Hold the pan between your thighs, tightly. Thump the lid at a shallow angle (like 5deg.) with the heels of both hands, in the appropriate direction. I mean, left hand facing right and vice versa. This technique only works if you strike both sides at the same time, and make sure there is as little oil about as practicable. You are applying torque in a shock, rather than just as a pressure. |
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Subject: RE: Pressure cooker lid stuck From: Little Hawk Date: 16 Nov 11 - 12:20 AM "I like old things that work" Ah. Well, you'd not like my dog. He's old, mind you...but the other part, well...sorry! |
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Subject: RE: Pressure cooker lid stuck From: Stilly River Sage Date: 15 Nov 11 - 09:21 PM Richard, the pot isn't worth this much trouble. Sell it for the price of the aluminum and buy a new steel one. The information about cooking in aluminum has been debunked, but still lingers. It apparently doesn't contribute to Alzheimers, though I still don't cook much in aluminum, so the shadow of the old information lingers.
From this page. She links to her sources. And there's this: Anodized Aluminum Cookware May Be a Safer Alternative extracted from here. SRS |
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Subject: RE: Pressure cooker lid stuck From: Bugsy Date: 15 Nov 11 - 07:37 PM Richard, I'm wondering if the seal has degraded and stuck the two parts together. Did the guy who borrowed it give it back to you in this state? If so, maybe he let it boil dry and the seal melted. How about taking the handles off then trying to tap the lid loose with a mallet whilst holding the base secure? good luck anyway Bugsy |
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Subject: RE: Pressure cooker lid stuck From: Richard Bridge Date: 15 Nov 11 - 07:07 PM Yes National are still in business - the US parent company. Yes most Presto spares are still listed - including the big washer, the safety plug, and the pressure weight. No WD40 has achieved nothing so far - but I haven't flooded the inside with it yet. If I break the bakelite handles I'll probably twist the bolt threads and wreck the thing. So I'm planning to get some shorter bolts and replace the handles with stout bits of wood 90 degrees out from the original handle position - one on one side and one on the other - with big repair washers to stop the wood compressing and bending the bolts - and then to apply a LOT of force. I don't plan to use it - I just want it working again 'cos I like old things that work. I have a 50 year old electric toaster, and a 50 year old Sunbeam electric frying pan, and a 50 year old electric coffee percolator - oh and a 60 year old electric copper kettle but the one I did junk was a ceramic electric kettle with a plastic lid that was designed to have a live element - so if you'd put a metal knitting needle down the spout you could have killed yourself quite easily at UK standard voltage of 240 volts. |
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