Crack in headjoint of wooden flute. Help

Subject: Crack in headjoint of wooden flute. Help
From: Deni
Date: 07 Mar 01 - 12:58 AM

Has anyone else experienced this and what on earth can I do about it.

Actually, the wooden flute I bought about 6 months ago, costing a couple of hundred pounds has two giant cracks along the headjoint. it is brass lined, by the look of it, and I have oiled it. I have emailed the company who sold it to me, and am awaitng their reply. If they won't do anything, is there any way I could repair it. I need it urgently! appreciate any thoughts... Deni.

Subject: RE: BS: Crack in headjoint of wooden flute. Help
From: InOBU
Date: 07 Mar 01 - 08:14 AM

Hi Deni:
There is a wooden flute board. I will email a friend and try to get you the URL. If anyone beats me to it, please post the URL. I just got a wee crack in the head joint of one of my three flutes. They are all about 160 years old or so, but a new flute should not crack like that. The possibilities are that your flat is too dry or the company that made it did not dry the wood for long enough. Good flutes should be made of old wood.
Cheers
Larry

Subject: RE: BS: Crack in headjoint of wooden flute. Help
From: Twiz
Date: 07 Mar 01 - 08:23 AM

Deni,

I had the same problem on a wooden keyless flute. It only developed one crack and I think it happened because I left the body in the headjoint. I suppose after playing, the wood will take up moisture and expand, that would put pressure on the headjoint! I reckon if there is no warning by the seller about this potential problem then they should replace it. I must add that it didn't make any difference to the tone on my flute.

Good luck,

Twiz.

Subject: RE: BS: Crack in headjoint of wooden flute. Help
From: Marc
Date: 07 Mar 01 - 04:09 PM

That is accually kind of common with sleived flutes, although not usually after six months. The wood wants to move with temp. and moisture changes, and the brass weon't let it. Though I must admit I've only seen this on older instruments(50-60 years old). The crack can be filled and the surface sanded, although based on the value of the instrument that might be better off done by a proffessional. I don't know were you're located, but in the Northeast (USA) Skip Healy does that kind of work in addition to building fine instruments.

Subject: RE: BS: Crack in headjoint of wooden flute. Help
From: Lynn W
Date: 07 Mar 01 - 05:59 PM

Click here to go to the woodenflute homepage, where you can sign on to the mailing list. There are frequent discussions about cracks so you may be able to find something in the archives. My main flute has a crack right down the head through the embouchure but it doesn't seem to affect playability. (It's an old flute and has been expertly mended.) A new flute shouldn't crack like this though. Good luck!

Subject: RE: BS: Crack in headjoint of wooden flute. Help
From: InOBU
Date: 07 Mar 01 - 06:12 PM

Thanks Fluter... that is the website I was refering to...
Larry

Subject: RE: BS: Crack in headjoint of wooden flute. Help
From: Deni
Date: 08 Mar 01 - 01:41 AM

thanks to all of you for the links and info. I should be sorted now.

i think also, that a warning leaflet should come with wooden flutes on the likely problems.

cheers

deni from devon UK

Subject: RE: BS: Crack in headjoint of wooden flute. Help
From: Roger in Sheffield
Date: 19 Mar 01 - 01:14 PM

Deni where did you get your flute from? I was given good instructions with both of mine, including a very frustrating breaking in period with the last one I bought. Here are the makers notes
Taking care of the flute

The wood that this instrument has been made from has been air dried (seasoned) for a number of years before being hand-crafted into a musical instrument. Flutes made from good quality hardwoods will improve in tonal quality through playing.

General care procedures, as described below, must be followed in order to prevent any damage occuning to the instrument.

Great care should be taken when assembling and taking apart the instrument, the parts being put together in a twisting motion rather than the tenon being pushed straight in. If it is a keyed flute, it should be held so as not to apply undue pressure on the keys. On keyed flutes with 'C and long 'F' keys, care must be taken that these keys do not foul on one another during assembly. The joints, which are lapped with cork, must be greased each time before playing to help protect against swelling from moisture, by using cork grease. Otherwise the joints dry out, which is quite noticeable.

This new instrument will go through a 'playing in' period. The new flute is not used to moisture or warm air. Wood expands as a result of an increase in temperature and/or because of water absorption. Fast expansion may cause cracking if it occurs too quickly. It is best not to play this new instrument for hours at a time until it is fully played in.

A guide to playing in would be: Ten minutes at a time for the first week, 20 minutes for the second week and 30 minutes at a time for the third week. This may be repeated a number of times each day.

After playing, condensed moisture in the bore (inside) should be wiped out with a loosely fitting mop or pull-through, so as to leave the bore evenly moist. It is not necessary to dry it out completely.

The bore of the instrument, but not the head joint, should be oiled with almond oil once a month, after the flute has dried out completely, and oiling is also recommended for the outside of the flute, including the head joint (around the mouth hole in particular), to protect the wood. This helps to replace the natural oils that are lost through evaporation and during the cleaning process. These oils help to stabilise the wood and therefore help to prevent cracking.

The instrument should never be submitted to extreme changes in temperature or placed in direct sunlight. All woodwind instruments perform best when played regularly, otherwise they tend to 'dry out'.

The metal keys, ferrules (rings) and bottom part of the tuning slide are made from sterling silver and should be polished with a silver polish cloth, not with any abrasive polish. This is to prevent tarnishing and pitting due to perspiration acids.

Finally, after cleaning, the flute should be put back in its case.

George Ormiston